Rapid LED NanoCube 28 CF Quad Aurora Array Retrofit

Transcription

1 1 Rapid LED NanoCube 28 CF Quad Aurora Array Retrofit Contents Foreword... 1 Outline... 2 Hood Preparation... 2 Aurora LED Array Specifications... 6 Wiring the Aurora Puck... 6 Wiring the Aurora LED Array to Drivers... 9 Mean Well LPC Drivers (Skip if you have any other driver):... 9 Wiring the Driver to AC Power RapidLED Nano Drivers with Potentiometer (Skip if you have any other driver): Mean Well LDD Drivers (Skip if you have any other driver): Wiring Power Cord to Power Supply Wiring LDD Drivers to Power Supply Connecting LDD Drivers to LED Strings Wiring Fans Finish Foreword As with any type of lighting retrofit, there are many dangers, difficulties, and pitfalls that may occur. The NC28 CF Quad retrofit should be attempted by those familiar with AC power and wiring, electronics, LEDs, LED Drivers, series circuits, and be comfortable with the fact that this retrofit will require complete disassembly and removal of some contents of the original hood. If you are uncomfortable with potential hazards, dangers, or pitfalls that may occur in the course of performing this retrofit, you should not attempt this retrofit. NOTE: These instructions are for installing the Aurora array in your hood. If you are using the kit with individual LEDs, refer to the instructions located here: JBJ Nanocube 28 CF Quad Instuctions

2 2 Outline Here is a general outline of steps we think end up with the easiest retrofit: 1. Remove unnecessary components from hood 2. Attach Aurora array to heatsink and wire array. Insert heatsink into hood. 3. Complete wiring for array, driver and fans 4. Close hood and test Hood Preparation In this step, we will remove: Plastic and glass cover / splash guard CF Quad Bulb o Thermostat o Ground Wire Ballast Fan Power Transformer Original Power cord First, remove all screws holding down the plastic cover. Remove it along with the glass.

3 3 Next, remove the two screws holding down the CF Quad Bulb. Remove them and unclip the blub. Next, remove the two screws on the right side of the reflector. The reflector is almost free from the hood. On the back side, it has a ground wire and a thermostat attached to it. Gently lift the reflector from the hood, flip it over and remove the thermostat which is attached by nuts and bolts in the center of the reflector and cut the ground wire. After this is done, remove the reflector. Next, unclip the CF Quad bulb and remove it.

4 4 Your hood should look like the picture below: To remove the ballast, press down on the spring terminals on the end and pull the wires out: Unscrew both ends and lift the ballast from the hood: To remove the original fan power transformer, unscrew the two mounting screws and cut the blue and brown wires as close to the white wire crimps as possible. We want the brown and blue wires long so we can attach our own AC adapter to them later (to power the fans).

5 Next, cut the power wire from the hood, in between the outermost inlet and the lighting inlet. The power wire is thick and can be difficult to cut, please exercise care when cutting this wire. After it is cut, remove the inner end of the power wire and all wires attached to it, including the transformer. We ll use the hole to route the power wires for the array later on. At this point, your hood should be prepped and ready for the array installation. 5

6 6 Aurora LED Array Specifications The Array has 4 channels: o Blue (1000mA max) - 4 XT-E Royal Blue + 3 XP-E Blue o Color (700mA max) - 2 XP-E Green + 1 XP-E Blue + 2 XP-E Red + 1 XP-E Red-Orange o White (1500mA max) - 4 XP-G Cool White o UV (700mA max) 4 SemiLEDs Violet UV Wiring the Aurora Puck In this step, we will connect the driver jumpers and terminal plugs to the array. First, insert 4 terminal plugs into the 2-pin sockets on the edge labeled Connect to second array or Plug before Applying Power. They will snap in and be difficult to remove if fully inserted. Give them a little tug (monkey tug, not gorilla tug) to ensure they do not fall out.

7 Next, on the opposite end, insert one driver jumper into each of the 2-pin sockets on the edge labeled with the colors Blue, Color, White, and UV. As with the terminal plugs, these should snap in and not fall out. Give them a gentle tug (monkey tug, not gorilla tug) and ensure they do not fall out. 7 Attaching Aurora LED Array to Heatsink To attach the Aurora LED Array to the heatsink, we will use the backside of the array and mix Parts A and B of the thermal adhesive directly on it. Note that the thermal adhesive, once mixed, has a working time of approximately 5 minutes. If the thermal adhesive hardens before you adhere it to the heatsink, you will need to sand the backside of your Aurora LED array with fine grit sandpaper (600 to 1000) to remove the adhesive and start over. We have found using a double cross works well. To begin, apply Part A of the thermal adhesive to the back of the array in a cross pattern as shown:

8 8 Apply Part B next to Part A on the back of the array in a similar pattern: Using a paddle, mix the 2 parts together to make a thin, even layer. You do not need to spread the thermal adhesive across the entire underside of the array. You do need to cover the parts underneath all LEDs to ensure proper cooling of the LEDs in the array. Once again, after mixing both Parts A and B together working time before hardening is approximately 5 minutes. After you have mixed the adhesive on the underside, flip the array over, place it on the heatsink in its final location, and press down firmly on the mounting holes. Do not press down on the LEDs themselves (the LEDs should not be touched, but will not die if you do touch them.) Allow the adhesive to set for approximately 1 hour before attempting to move the array. If the adhesive is not set properly your

9 9 array may slip and you will have to redo the thermal adhesive to ensure proper thermal conductivity between the array and the heatsink. The array will look like this on the heatsink: Wiring the Aurora LED Array to Drivers The Aurora LED Array is compatible with many driver choices. Contact RapidLED with any questions not covered by this document. Included below are instructions for using Mean Well LPC, LDD, and RapidLED Nano drivers. We do not recommend using any type of switches/quick connects on the DC (LED) portion of the set-up. ***DO NOT APPLY POWER TO ANY COMPONENTS BEFORE ALL CONNECTIONS AND WIRING ARE COMPLETE OR YOU RISK BURNING OUT THE LEDs IN YOUR ARRAY(S).*** Mean Well LPC Drivers (Skip if you have any other driver): For LPC drivers, use wire nuts to connect the V+ from a driver to the first red wire of the driver jumper for the first channel. Then connect the V- from the same driver to corresponding black wire on that driver jumper. Repeat for the other 3 drivers and driver jumpers.

10 10 Wiring the Driver to AC Power The AC Line and Neutral, or ACL and ACN wires, which are brown and blue, connect to the power cord included in our kits. Strip the white and black wires of the power cord (green is ground and unused) and attach them to the blue and brown wires on the driver with the included moisture resistant wire nuts. Order is not important because AC current alternates. Obviously, this step is dangerous because you are working with 120AC current. Make sure nothing is plugged in and have a licensed electrician assist you with this step. RapidLED Nano Drivers with Potentiometer (Skip if you have any other driver): Using a screwdriver, remove the cover screws from the right side of the Nano driver (the side with the potentiometer) and take off the cover exposing the green screw terminals.

11 11 Next, we will insert the red driver jumper wire and black driver jumper into the V+ and V- screw terminals on the Nano driver. To do this, unscrew the V+ and V- terminals and remove any pre-existing wires in those terminals. Make sure not to unscrew the terminal screws too much or the screws will come out. Insert the red driver jumper wire into the V+ jack and tighten the terminal screw until the wire the terminal when lightly tugged on. Repeat with the black driver jumper wire and the V- terminal screw. If you are using an 0-10V analog controller (ie. Apex) instead of the potentiometer, you will repeat these steps for the D+ and D- terminal to remove the potentiometer and to insert the positive and negative dimming wires from the controller. Consult the controller s documentation to identify these wires. With all of the wires attached securely in the terminals, replace the cover on the Nano driver. Repeat these steps for the remaining Nano drivers.

12 12 Mean Well LDD Drivers (Skip if you have any other driver): Wiring Power Cord to Power Supply Make sure all 3 wires from the power cord are stripped. Loosen the screw terminals on the right side of the SE power supply, insert the wires into the proper screw terminals and tighten the screws. The green wire must go to ground as pictured below. The white wire should go to N and the black to L. NOTE: If you are using AC power other than VAC, there is a switch on the side of the power supply that must be flipped or you will damage the power supply.

13 Wiring LDD Drivers to Power Supply Next, loosen a screw on the +V and V areas of the power supply. The red Vin + wire goes to a +V screw on the power supply and the black Vin wire goes to a V screw on the power supply. Insert wires and tighten the screws. 13

14 14 Repeat with the remaining LDD drivers as pictured below. Connecting LDD Drivers to LED Strings Finally, connect the Vout + and wires from one LDD driver to one driver jumper per the diagram below. Repeat this for all 3 remaining LDD drivers and driver jumpers. The LDD-1000HW drivers will connect to the Blue and White channels ONLY, and the LDD-700HW drivers will be used on the UV and Color channels due to the current limitations of each channel. If you are using a PWM controller, connect your controller to the white Dim wire. Other connections might be necessary, so consult your controller s instructions on this wiring. The LDD drivers are only compatible with a controller that outputs a 0-5V PWM dimming signal such as the Storm controller:

15 15 Wiring Fans The fans will be powered by the 12V AC adapter included with your kit. We will use it to power the fans by connecting it to the brown and blue wires from the PCB in the NC28 HQI hood. Cut the end off of the included 12V AC adapter. Run the AC adapter wire through the vent slot nearest the moonlight AC Adapter Jack. Now, route the AC Adapter wire through the rubber grommet as pictured below on the right. Next, separate the AC Adapter wires down the middle until they are approximately an inch long. Strip

16 off approximately half an inch of the outer jacket from each wire. You should now have the AC Adapter wires and PCB brown and blue wires near each other so they can be connected together by wire nuts. 16 Next, connect the brown and blue PCB wires to the AC adapter wires. Which wire to which is not important (because it is rectified).

17 17 Finish Tuck the jumper wires coming off of the array strings into a slot in the heatsink compartment and then replace the glass and plastic cover. Enjoy!