SPLASH, VORTICES AND TURBULENT SHEARS IN PARTIAL DAM-BREAK FLOWS SPLASH MODEL OF WAVE-BREAKING AND OVERTOPPING

Similar documents
Quantifying the Dynamic Ocean Surface Using Underwater Radiometric Measurement

Numerical Simulation of Coastal Wave Processes with the Use of Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics (SPH) Method

ALE Seamless Immersed Boundary Method with Overset Grid System for Multiple Moving Objects

Backward facing step Homework. Department of Fluid Mechanics. For Personal Use. Budapest University of Technology and Economics. Budapest, 2010 autumn

Coupling of STAR-CCM+ to Other Theoretical or Numerical Solutions. Milovan Perić

Measurements of Three-Dimensional Velocity Fields Under Breaking Waves

QUASI-3D SOLVER OF MEANDERING RIVER FLOWS BY CIP-SOROBAN SCHEME IN CYLINDRICAL COORDINATES WITH SUPPORT OF BOUNDARY FITTED COORDINATE METHOD

Large Eddy Simulation of Flow over a Backward Facing Step using Fire Dynamics Simulator (FDS)

Continued Investigation of Small-Scale Air-Sea Coupled Dynamics Using CBLAST Data

Quantifying the Dynamic Ocean Surface Using Underwater Radiometric Measurement

NUMERICAL MODELING STUDY FOR FLOW PATTERN CHANGES INDUCED BY SINGLE GROYNE

INTERACTION BETWEEN TURBULENT DYNAMICAL PROCESSES AND STATISTICS IN DEFORMED AIR-LIQUID INTERFACES, VIA DNS

Investigation of cross flow over a circular cylinder at low Re using the Immersed Boundary Method (IBM)

A Direct Simulation-Based Study of Radiance in a Dynamic Ocean

Driven Cavity Example

Coastal impact of a tsunami Review of numerical models

A Direct Simulation-Based Study of Radiance in a Dynamic Ocean

Flow structure and air entrainment mechanism in a turbulent stationary bore

Effect of initial turbulence intensity and velocity profile on liquid jets for IFE beamline protection

Numerical Study of Turbulent Flow over Backward-Facing Step with Different Turbulence Models

Handout: Turbulent Structures

Generation and propagation of solitary wave over a steep sloping beach

Inviscid Flows. Introduction. T. J. Craft George Begg Building, C41. The Euler Equations. 3rd Year Fluid Mechanics

Pulsating flow around a stationary cylinder: An experimental study

Tsunami coastal impact The use of VOF-URANS methods with examples

Investigation of the critical submergence at pump intakes based on multiphase CFD calculations

LES Analysis on Shock-Vortex Ring Interaction

Using a Single Rotating Reference Frame

Vortex Method Applications. Peter S. Bernard University of Maryland

Axisymmetric Viscous Flow Modeling for Meridional Flow Calculation in Aerodynamic Design of Half-Ducted Blade Rows

Calculate a solution using the pressure-based coupled solver.

THE INFLUENCE OF ROTATING DOMAIN SIZE IN A ROTATING FRAME OF REFERENCE APPROACH FOR SIMULATION OF ROTATING IMPELLER IN A MIXING VESSEL

CFD Analysis of 2-D Unsteady Flow Past a Square Cylinder at an Angle of Incidence

Experimental Validation of the Computation Method for Strongly Nonlinear Wave-Body Interactions

COUPLING OF 3D NUMERICAL SOLUTION METHOD BASED ON NAVIER-STOKES EQUATIONS WITH SOLUTIONS BASED ON SIMPLER THEORIES

MESHLESS SOLUTION OF INCOMPRESSIBLE FLOW OVER BACKWARD-FACING STEP

Andrew Carter. Vortex shedding off a back facing step in laminar flow.

The Spalart Allmaras turbulence model

Three Dimensional Numerical Simulation of Turbulent Flow Over Spillways

Adarsh Krishnamurthy (cs184-bb) Bela Stepanova (cs184-bs)

NUMERICAL 3D TRANSONIC FLOW SIMULATION OVER A WING

Vorticity dynamics & the small scales of turbulence Particle Tracking Velocimetry 3DPTV & DNS

Reproducibility of Complex Turbulent Flow Using Commercially-Available CFD Software

Strömningslära Fluid Dynamics. Computer laboratories using COMSOL v4.4

Modeling External Compressible Flow

ACTIVE SEPARATION CONTROL WITH LONGITUDINAL VORTICES GENERATED BY THREE TYPES OF JET ORIFICE SHAPE

Simulation of Transient and Three-Dimensional Coating Flows Using a Volume-of-Fluid Technique

Reproducibility of Complex Turbulent Flow Using Commercially-Available CFD Software

Sloshing reduction effect of splitting wall in cylindrical tank

Flow Structures Extracted from Visualization Images: Vector Fields and Topology

Cloud Cavitating Flow around an Axisymmetric Projectile in the shallow water

Direct numerical simulations of flow and heat transfer over a circular cylinder at Re = 2000

Comparison of a two-dimensional viscid and inviscid model for rotating stall analysis

MOMENTUM AND HEAT TRANSPORT INSIDE AND AROUND

Aalborg Universitet. Numerical 3-D Modelling of Overflows Larsen, Torben; Nielsen, L.; Jensen, B.; Christensen, E. D.

CGT 581 G Fluids. Overview. Some terms. Some terms

Lab 9: FLUENT: Transient Natural Convection Between Concentric Cylinders

USE OF PROPER ORTHOGONAL DECOMPOSITION TO INVESTIGATE THE TURBULENT WAKE OF A SURFACE-MOUNTED FINITE SQUARE PRISM

Flow Structures of Jupiter s Great Red Spot Extracted by Using Optical Flow Method

cuibm A GPU Accelerated Immersed Boundary Method

RANS COMPUTATION OF RIBBED DUCT FLOW USING FLUENT AND COMPARING TO LES

Numerical simulation of a turbulent hydraulic jump: Characterization of the free interface and large bubble structure

SCOURING MECHANISM BEHIND SEAWALL FROM TSUNAMI OVERFLOW AND OPTIMUM CONDITIONS TO REDUCE TSUNAMI ENERGY WITH AN ARTIFICAIL TRENCH

CHAPTER 16. A Turbulent Flow Model For Breaking Waves

LARGE EDDY SIMULATION OF VORTEX SHEDDING WITH TRIANGULAR CYLINDER AHEAD OF A SQUARE CYLINDER

Table of contents for: Waves and Mean Flows by Oliver Bühler Cambridge University Press 2009 Monographs on Mechanics. Contents.

The effects of free surface and end cell on flow around a finite circular cylinder with low aspect ratio

INLET EFFECTS ON VERTICAL-DOWNWARD AIR-WATER TWO-PHASE FLOW

A Deterministic Viscous Vortex Method for Grid-free CFD with Moving Boundary Conditions

Characteristic Aspects of SPH Solutions

A Finite Particle Approach for the Simulation of Multiphase Flows

ITTC Recommended Procedures and Guidelines

Leading edge. Leading edge vortex, LE-V. Closed-type Boundary layer separation. Unsteady shedding by axial velocity

An Embedded Boundary Method with Adaptive Mesh Refinements

9.9 Coherent Structure Detection in a Backward-Facing Step Flow

Simulation Technology for Offshore and Marine Hydrodynamics Status Review and Emerging Capabilities

3D Investigation of Seabed Stress Around Subsea Pipelines

Possibility of Implicit LES for Two-Dimensional Incompressible Lid-Driven Cavity Flow Based on COMSOL Multiphysics

Incompressible Viscous Flow Simulations Using the Petrov-Galerkin Finite Element Method

Phase-field simulation of two-phase micro-flows in a Hele-Shaw cell

Super-Parameterization of Boundary Layer Roll Vortices in Tropical Cyclone Models

Aurélien Thinat Stéphane Cordier 1, François Cany

Simulation of Offshore Wave Impacts with a Volume of Fluid Method. Tim Bunnik Tim Bunnik MARIN

NUMERICAL AND EXPERIMENTAL INVESTIGATION OF FLOW OVER A SEMICIRCULAR WEIR

Numerical Modeling of Flow Around Groynes with Different Shapes Using TELEMAC-3D Software

NUMERICAL ANALYSIS OF WIND EFFECT ON HIGH-DENSITY BUILDING AERAS

FLOWING FLUIDS AND PRESSURE VARIATION

A Direct Simulation-Based Study of Radiance in a Dynamic Ocean

NUMERICAL SIMULATIONS OF BREAKING SOLITARY WAVES

Reproducibility of Complex Turbulent Flow Using Commercially-Available CFD Software

Drop Impact Simulation with a Velocity-Dependent Contact Angle

Three-dimensional simulation of floating wave power device Xixi Pan 1, a, Shiming Wang 1, b, Yongcheng Liang 1, c

On the flow and noise of a two-dimensional step element in a turbulent boundary layer

The role of surface waves in the ocean mixed layer

Free Surface Flow Simulations

A Study of the Development of an Analytical Wall Function for Large Eddy Simulation of Turbulent Channel and Rectangular Duct Flow

2.7 Cloth Animation. Jacobs University Visualization and Computer Graphics Lab : Advanced Graphics - Chapter 2 123

Numerical Modeling Study for Fish Screen at River Intake Channel ; PH (505) ; FAX (505) ;

2D numerical simulation of ocean waves

Keywords: flows past a cylinder; detached-eddy-simulations; Spalart-Allmaras model; flow visualizations

Transcription:

SPLASH, VORTICES AND TURBULENT SHEARS IN PARTIAL DAM-BREAK FLOWS SPLASH MODEL OF WAVE-BREAKING AND OVERTOPPING Yasunori Watanabe 1, Shunichi Sato 2, Yasuo Niida 3, Ichiro Kimura 4, Hiroshi Yokota 5, Haruhi Oyaizu 6, Yuki Oshima 7 and Ayumi Saruwatari 8 Three-dimensional evolution of local fluid flows and surface shapes under partial collapse of a water column is characterized during computational experiments using three-dimensional large eddy simulation in this paper. The free-surface behaviors highly depend on the collapse level and ambient water layer depth via mechanical interactions between the surface and vortices. It has been found major three modes of the splashing responses of the free-surfaces and vortex structures; (i) forward projection of secondary jets, which organizes a typical rib-like vortex structure stretched underneath the jets, (ii) backward jet projection with an inverse form of the rib structure, and (iii) blob-like waves induced by an array of the horizontal roller vortices. These findings provide new perspectives to understand wave breaking behaviors as well as practical assessments for the fluid responses in the splashing area for sea wall overflow and overtopping. Keywords: wave breaking, overtopping, splash, vortex, LES INTRODUCTION A variety of surface forms of wave faces, jets and bores, depending on incident wave conditions, water depth and bottom slope, are observed after wave breaking. Although an initial stage of wave breaking is characterized by a breaker types or surf similarity parameter because of gravity-dominated phenomenon, the following dynamics is described by a combination of various mechanical effects including turbulence, vortices, shear and surface tension. The physical mechanisms to describe evolution of the local surface deformation and velocity have yet been well understood. While the overturning waves initially produce a prominent two-dimensional roller vortex, three-dimensional vortex structures are often observed for being organized during a splash-up process. Nadaoka et al. (1989) found three-dimensional turbulent structures involving vortex pairs extending behind the breaking wave face in the direction of obliquely downward, a so-called obliquely descending eddy (ODE) (see Fig. 1). Watanabe (2005) interpreted the mechanism to change orientation of the initial spanwise vorticity on a two-dimensional roller vortex into obliquely downward to produce ODE via shear instability manifested at stagnation point flow at wave plunging locations. The resulting counter-rotating vortices stretched beneath the surface in the direction of wave propagation deform the free-surface, owing to surface entrainment, to configure a scarified surface shape (Sarpkaya and Suthon 1991). Saruwatari et al. (2009) interpreted that the development of the vorticity-induced scars on the secondary jets results in a formation of finger jets. Kubo and Sunamura (2001) experimentally found another type of vertical flows resulted from backward collapse of wave surfaces owing to horizontal counter-rotating vortices (see Fig. 1). The downward flow induced between the vortices, a so-called down-burst, brings entrained air bubbles into depth. The purpose of this study is to find dominant parameters to determine the distinct types of the 1 School of Engineering, Hokkaido University, North 13 West 8, Sapporo 060 8628, Japan 2 City of Sapporo,North 1 West 2, Sapporo 060 8611, Japan 3 Central Research Institute of Electric Power Industry, 1646 Abiko, Abiko-shi, Chiba 270 1194, Japan 4 School of Engineering, Hokkaido University, North 13 West 8, Sapporo 060 8628, Japan 5 School of Engineering, Hokkaido University, North 13 West 8, Sapporo 060 8628, Japan 6 School of Engineering, Hokkaido University, North 13 West 8, Sapporo 060 8628, Japan 7 School of Engineering, Hokkaido University, North 13 West 8, Sapporo 060 8628, Japan 8 School of Engineering, Hokkaido University, North 13 West 8, Sapporo 060 8628, Japan 1

Figure 1. Schematic representations of the downburst (left) and the obliquely descending eddies (right), after Kubo and Sunamura (2001) surface formation and the flow structure after wave breaking. However, as many mechanical factors affect the surf zone flows, it is difficult to explicitly find a primary parameter to describe the specific local flow in common wave experiments. In order to eliminate many of the factors and to focus only on the effects of the initial plunging jet and water depth to the surface flow dynamics, we perform computational partial dam-break experiments as a simple model of the wave plunging. The surface, vorticity and turbulence responses for splashing and jetting fluid flows, of which the initial conditions are completely controlled by relative collapse height with respective to water depth, are investigated in this paper. COMPUTATIONAL EXPERIMENTS In this study, free-surface turbulent flows of a splashing jet have been modeled using an identical model and computational scheme to that described by Watanabe et al. (2009), the approach is summarized in this section as full details are also given in Gotoh, Okayasu and Watanabe (2012). Computational procedures The large eddy simulation (LES) approach is used for computing three-dimensional turbulence in this study. In LES, a filtering operation (represented by an overline) is performed on the Navier-Stokes equation and the resulting filtered equation is used as the governing equation: D f u Dt = p τ + τ 0 + 1 F r 2 g, (1) where τ denotes the sub-grid scale (SGS) stress tensor, u is the resolved fluid velocity, p is the pressure, τ 0 is the viscous stress tensor (= 2 Re S, where Re (= ν 0/V D)is the Reynolds number, S is the strain tensor and ν 0 is the kinematic viscosity), and g is the unit gravity vector. D f Dt = t +u 2

is the filtered material derivative. The second and third terms on the right hand side of Eq. (1) are described by the SGS viscosity equation τ 1 3 (τ : I)I τ 0 = 2ν S, (2) Re where I is the unit dyadic. The SGS viscosity model based on renormalisation group theory is used to determine ν in Eq. (2). The location of the free-surface is defined in terms of a level-set function, ϕ, which is defined as a signed distance function from the interface. D f ϕ Dt = 0. (3) ϕ is taken to be positive inside the fluid and negative outside the fluid. The free surface is defined to be located where ϕ(x, t) = 0. Eq.(3) is updated by the Cubic Interpolation Polynomials (CIP) method, which is a quasi-lagrangian technique for computing advection based on a third-order polynomial interpolation within a cell (see the numerical procedure described by Gotoh, Okayasu and Watanabe (2012)). Since ϕ is perpendicular to the iso-contour ϕ = 0, the unit outward normal vector n and the curvature κ of the surface are given by n = ϕ ϕ and κ = n, respectively. The two unit tangential vectors on the surface are determined by geometric relations with the normal vector n. The surface tension and velocity derivatives in the free-surface boundary conditions (4) and (5) can be represented by the level-set function using the above relations. A jump condition for momentum conservation across a free-surface leads the normal and tangential dynamic boundary conditions on a free-surface: p sf + 2ν u n Re n = 2κ W e, (4) ν Re ( u n t i + u t i ) = 0, (5) n where p sf is the surface pressure, W e (= ρv 2 D/σ) is the Weber number, σ is the coefficient of surface tension, and u n and u ti (i = 1, 2) are the normal and two tangential components of the resolved surface velocity, respectively. In the computation of free-surface flows on the fixed grids, where the fluid flow in the air is disregarded, the velocity outside of the fluid region needs to be extrapolated from the inner velocity in order to be able to compute the convective equation and update the surface location. In this study, an extrapolation technique which ensures the zero tangential shear dynamic condition (5) has been used (Watanabe et al. 2008). This approach ensures that in regions of surface deformation with high curvature the correct surface-vortex interactions have been obtained. A fractional step method has been applied to the discretized form of Eq. (1) splitting the equation into the convective and non-convective parts. The CIP method is used for the convective step, and then a predictor-corrector method is applied to computing the non-convective equation. A Poisson pressure equation is solved iteratively using a multi-grid method and an irregular-star method is used to prescribed the normal dynamic boundary condition (4) (for details see Gotoh, Okayasu and Watanabe (2012)). Experimental Setup LES is performed in a three-dimensional rectangular channel of the domain that is separated by the impermeable wall of height d w and the lift gate above the wall (See Fig. 2). The water column of depth d c (= 0.8 m/s) above the wall is collapsed as the gate is lifted at constant velocity of V 0 (= 0.8 m/s), and then the upstream water flows into the ambient water layer of depth d 0. While overflowing splashes are simulated in case d w > d 0, submerged jetting flows occur in case of d w < 3

4 COASTAL ENGINEERING 2012 Figure 2. Dam-break tank model. d 0. Computational grids of 280 in length of the tank, 60 in width, and 58 in height are used to resolve the dimensional domain (1.4 m, 0.3 m, 0.28 m). As periodic flow field is assumed in the spanwise direction, the periodic boundary condition is used on side walls. A non-slip condition is imposed at the bottom boundary. The physical laboratory experiments measuring sequential backlight images of the surface profiles are also performed in the dam-break channel with the same measures to the model domain for validating the computational model. RESULTS Distinctive three different modes of the free-surface deformation, vortex formation and the turbulent structure have been found to depend on the relative wall height with respect to forward water layer depth. In d w > d 0, an overflow jet plunges onto a shallower water layer to push the forward water up for projecting a secondary jet forward. In dw d0, a rear part of the wave, induced by the initial jetting flow with lower splash angle, forms a planar jet projecting backward owing to surface-vortex interaction; a so-called back-splash is observed. Finally, in d w < d 0, a streamwise array of vortices with the same rotational direction are produced by the submerged jetting flow, and thus vortex-induced blob-like waves are formed there. Fundamental features for each dam-break mode are discussed bellow. Plunging Mode Fig. 3 shows sequences of the experimental and computational surface forms and the coherent vortex structures, visualized by λ 2 method (Jeong and Hussain (1995)), in the case d w = 10 cm and d 0 = 3 cm. The observed overflow jet plunges with high splash angle (typically > 45 ) with respect to the surface of the forward shallow water layer at t= 0.18 s. The secondary jet is then ejected forward and overturns to plunge on the surface again (t = 0.25 s and 0.32 s). The computed free-surfaces consistently interpret these major features of the observed surface evolution. We find the transverse array of the coherent vortices stretched from the plunging location to the free edge of the secondary jet (t= 0.25 s in Fig. 3 bottom), forming a rib-like vortex structure (t= 0.32 s) configures identical to the one observed in plunging waves (Watanabe et al. 2005). The iso-surface of the computed streamwise vorticity at t = 0.32 s is shown in Fig. 4. Multiple pairs of counter-rotating vortices stretched in the axis of the secondary jet are organized in the rib structure. We also find typical spanwise arrangement of scars on the upper surface of the secondary jets before finger jets are formed at the tip of the jet in Fig. 3 (middle), which is caused by the

5 COASTAL ENGINEERING 2012 Figure 3. Sequential free-surfaces (top: experimental images, middle: computed results) and coherent vortex structures (bottom) in the case of d w =10 cm and d 0 =3 cm. Figure 4. Iso-surface of streamwise vorticity at t = 0.32 s in the case of d w=10 cm and d 0 =3 cm. entrainment of free-surface by the counter-rotating vortices in the same mechanism interpreted by Saruwatari et al. (2009). This dam-break mode in d w > d 0, following the overflow with high splash angle, can be an appropriate model for fluid dynamics of wave plunging.

6 COASTAL ENGINEERING 2012 Figure 5. Sequential free-surfaces (top: experimental images, middle: computed results) and coherent vortex structures (bottom) in the case of d w =7 cm and d 0 =7 cm. Back-Splash Mode Fig. 5 shows the observed and computed surfaces and the vortex structures in the case d w = d 0 = 7 cm. The initial jetting flow with lower splash angle with respect to the still water surface produces a semi-circular shaped wave with spilling jets at the crest at t=0.32 s. The rear part of the wave projects to the upstream direction and plunges onto the backward wave trough at t=0.50 s before forming the backward secondary jets at t =0.68 s. The emergence of this so-called back-splash is a typical feature of the dam-break flows for d w d 0. A vertically developing bubble plume is observed where the backward jet plunges, in the experimental image at t=0.68 s. In this case, spanwise large-scale horizontal vortices induced by the initial jetting flow govern at t=0.32 s and 0.50 s ( see bottom panel of Fig. 5), while an inverse form of the rib structure is organized at the plunging point at t=0.68 s. Fig. 6 shows the spanwise vorticity on the horizontal vortices at t=0.32 s and 0.50 s. We find a pair of horizontal counter-rotating vortex is simultaneously induced by forward and backward diverging flows from the initial jetting flows. The anticlockwise rotating flow induced by the upper vortex entrains the above surface upstream, resulting in the back-splash; that is, the surface-vortex interaction via the surface entrainment by the sub-surface vortex causes the back-splash event. The analogy of the computed rotating flows, surface form and emergence of the vertical bubble plume with the so-called downburst observed by Kubo and Sunamura (2001) indicates the identical mechanism for the downburst flow with the back-splash dam-break mode. As only parameter of the relative wall height, associated with the orientation of the initial jetting flow, create a difference between the plunging and back-splash modes, we can conclude that the downburst can be

7 COASTAL ENGINEERING 2012 Figure 6. Iso-surface of spanwise vorticity at t = 0.32 s and t = 0.53 s in the case d w= d 0 = 7 cm. Figure 7. Sequential free-surfaces (top: experimental images, middle: computed results) and coherent vortex structures (bottom) in the case of d w =0 cm and d 0 =7 cm. parametrized by the splash angle of plunging jet. Vortex-Induced Wave Mode In the case d w < d 0, the horizontal jet initially flowing out beneath the submerged gate produce a blob-like wave following multiple horizontal vortices underneath (see t=0.32 s in Fig. 7). As the sub-surface vortices entrain the free-surface above them, a spanwise uniform scar appears at t = 0.5 s and further overturning deformation owing to the vortices is observed to entrap cylindrical air in

8 COASTAL ENGINEERING 2012 Figure 8. Iso-surface of spanwise vorticity at t = 0.25 s and t = 0.53 s in the case d w=0 cm and d 0 = 7 cm. Figure 9. Schematic illustrations of the dam-break flows; plunging mode (left), back-splash mode (middle) and vortex-induced wave mode (right). the wave at t = 0.68 s. Since strong shear occurs between the horizontal vortices with anticlockwise vorticity (Fig. 8), complex small-scales vortex structure is formed there to disturb the surface above. These findings on distinct flow patterns depending on the orientation of the plunging jet (or jetting flow) provide new perspectives to understand wave breaking behaviors as well as practical assessments for the fluid responses for overflowing and overtopping. CONCLUSIONS In this paper we perform computational partial dam-break experiments as a simple model of the wave plunging to find an primary parameter associated with the surface flows of breaking waves. Distinctive three different modes of the surface deformation and vortex formation have been found to appear behind the collapsed column, which are summarized in schematic illustrations of Fig. 9. In d w > d 0, an overflow jet plunges onto a shallower water layer to push the forward water up for projecting a secondary jet forward (Fig. 9 left). The transverse array of longitudinal vortices is stretched from the plunging location to the free edge of the secondary jet, which is identical with the rib vortex structure previously observed in plunging breaking waves (Watanabe et al. 2005). In dw d0, a pair of horizontal counter-rotating vortex is initially produced by jetting flows near the water surface behind the wall (Fig. 9 middle), resulting in a backward splash owing to surface-vortex interaction (surface entrainment by the sub-surface vortex). Since the orientation of the fluid stretch becomes opposite to the previous overflow splash mode, an inverse form of the rib structure is organized in this mode. This counter-rotating fluid motion interprets a fundamental mechanism for producing a so-called downburst observed by Kubo and Sunamura (2001). In d w < d 0, multiple pairs of counter-rotating vortices are produced by the submerged jetting flow, and thus vortex-induced blob-like waves are formed there(fig. 9 right).

9 COASTAL ENGINEERING 2012 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Financial support for this study is provided by JSPS Grants-in-Aid Scientific Research (243660196, 24360174, 25289150). REFERENCES Gotoh, H., A. Okayasu and Y. Watanabe. 2012. Computational Wave Dynamics, World Scientific. Jeong, J. and Hussain, F.. 1995. On the identification of a vortex J. Fluid Mech., 285, 69 94. Kubo H. and T. Sunamura. 2001. Large-scale turbulence to facilitate sediment motion under spilling breakers, Proc. Coastal Dynamics 2001, 212 221. Nadaoka, K., M. Hino and Y. Koyano. 1989. Structure of the turbulent flow field under breaking waves in the surf zone J. Fluid Mech., 204, 359 387. Sarpkaya, T. and P. Suthon. 1991. Interaction of a vortex couple with a free surface Exp. Fluids, 11, 205 2017. Saruwatari, A., Y. Watanabe and D. M. Ingram. 2009. Scarifying and fingering surfaces of plunging jets Coastal Engineering, 56, 1109 1122. Watanabe Y., H. Saeki and R. J. Hosking. 2005. Three-dimensional vortex structures under breaking waves, J. Fluid Mech., 545, 291 328. Watanabe, Y., A. Saruwatari and D. M. Ingram. 2008. Free-surface flows under impacting droplets, J. Comp. Phys., 227, 2344 2365.