Assembly Instructions

Transcription

1 Board: Title: Autor: Version/date: Andy Schenk, Insonix.ch Version 1, May 2012 Content 1. What you need Assembling Testing Quick start Options PP only variation Schematic BOM...14 page: 1/15

2 1. What you need You need some soldering skills and some experience with PCB soldering, but the PropinoPP is mainly a thruhole design with only 3 SMD part. These SMD parts have large connections with wide pitch, so they are even easier to solder than some thruhole parts. You need the following tools: - solder iron with a fine tip and small tin-solder - maybe some solder wick - wire cutter and flat pliers - a multimeter for testing 2. Assembling The parts should be assembled sorted by there height, the following order is suggested: We start with the SMD parts. First the voltage regulator U3. Mount it at the position shown in the left hand side picture. Put first some solder on only one of the 3 pads on the left. Then you can reheat the solder while you move the component to the right position with the other hand. When the part fits to the pads, solder the other 2 pads and the solder lug on the right. Now we add the jack plug X10 and the SD card socket X11. Both have feed holes, so it is easy to place them. X10 needs maybe some pressure to align with the PCB. Solder then all the pads (golden colors in picture on the left). The two outermost pins inside the SD socket have no pads, and are not soldered. Two of the fine wires on the right of the SD socket are soldered to one pad, they are not used, you solder it only that they hold tight. page: 2/15

3 Next parts are the IC sockets for the Propeller chip and the USB-controller chip. It's important that the notches are on the marked side, otherwise there is a big chance that the IC is put in in the wrong direction some time. You need to turn the PCB with the sockets, so that you see the bottom of the board to solder all the pins of the sockets. Start with two diagonal placed pins and test if the socket fits well, before you solder all the others. Now follow the components R1, C1, and C3. The Capacitors C1 and C3 are easy to place. For the resistor array R1 it is important that the dot on the part fits with the dot on the PCB (see picture on the left). There are 9 holes for R1, but you can also use a 8 pin resistor array. In this case R1 must be aligned at the dotted pin, and the hole most right in the picture on the left, will be not populated. To turn the PCB you need to hold R1 with a finger nail or so. Now we assembly the hardest part, the USB connector X12. You need to hold it while you turn the PCB. The wires are short, so you actually just fill the holes with solder. The pins are near to each other, so be careful that there are no solder bridges. The Reset switch S1 and the On/Off switch S2 are easy to place and to solder, just take care that the slider of S2 is on the rigth side (shows away from the PCB). page: 3/15

4 Now follow the crystal Q1 and the diode D2. For the diode you need to observe the right polarity. You have to bend one wire of the diode according the following picture. The black ring must be at the shown position. Then put D2 in the holes, so that the diode body is over the hole with the circle. Here we solder the Arduino headers into the board. Begin with one header and solder it before you add the next. One after the other, not all together. For every header solder first only one pin, and take care that the header is aligned right vertically and horizontally. They must build a right angel to the PCB, and also must not be aslope. Otherwise it doesn't look nice and it will be hard to put in an Arduino shield. Now follows the tantalum capacitor C2. This is a polarized capacitor, so the + mark on the component must fit with the + next to C1 on the PCB. If the capacitor has no + mark, then you can identify the wire according the following picture: page: 4/15

5 Next parts are all the resistors R3, R4, R5, R6, R7 and R8. You need to bend one wire, like you have done with diode D2, but here it's not important which one. You can identify the resistor values according the color rings: R3 = 4k7 = yellow violet red gold R4, R5, R8 = 270 Ohm = brown violet brown gold R6, R7 = 1k1 = brown brown red gold The 560 Ohm resistors (green blue brown gold) are used later for the TV circuit. Now we solder first the PS/2 connector X9. Solder all 7 pins. Then the Resonator Q2 and the red LED. For the LED it is important to place the flattened side at the hole marked with dashes (to bottom pin in the picture), otherwise the LED will not light later. Last step so far is the assembly of the PropellerPlatform (PP) headers. If you want to use such add-on boards, then you need to solder 4 connectors, one 16 pin, one 18 pin, one 4 pin and one 5 pin header. They are a bit extended compared with the original PP standard, to allow also 10pin modules and a 5V supply on an add-on board.. If you not need PP boards, I recommend to add at least a 10 pin header, as shown in the picture (bottom left). This allows to use 10pin standard modules. page: 5/15

6 3. Testing The is powered over the Mini USB connector, so you need the right cable and a 5V supply with USB A connector. To make the first tests I recommend to use a "safe" 5 Volt source like a phone charger or a self powered hub, and not the USB port of a PC to power the board. But if you don't have one of these, and if you carefully check all the solder joints at the USB connector and the IC socket U2, then also a USB port is not too dangerous. They are normally current limited. Be aware: It's you that has assembled the parts, so it's your responsibility if something gets damaged. As a word of encouargement: I have build several boards and had never an issue with shorts or so. If you have the power connected switch ON with S2 (slider in direction to the USB port) and measure the voltage at the unpopulated PropPlug port pins G and 3V (next to the USB connectior) with a multimeter in DC 20V range. You should measure 3.3 Volts. So we can be sure that the power supply and the voltage regulator U3 works. Then measure the voltage at all the labeled header pins (5V and 3.3V), you can also check some important pins of the IC sockets: If this all is okay, then switch the PropinoPP off and put the USB-controller (COG9U1) into the 20 pin IC socket. The notch must be on the correct side (in direction of the SD socket). Now connect the USB cable to a PC and switch the board On. On Windows a new USB hardware should be recognized. The chip is a CDC device (Communication Device Class), so you need some sort of driver to get a virtual COM port. For Windows XP the driver is already in the system, but you need an INF file anyway. I have no experience with page: 6/15

7 newer Windows versions, but CDC is a common standard, so they must also support it. For Linux and Mac no drivers should be necessary, they regonize a CDC device like a mouse or an USB stick. For Windows, download the driver ZIP from the PropinoPP homepage, and extract it to a known directory. When the PC asks for a driver, guide the Installation Assistant to the directory with the downloaded driver. Don't let the PC search in the Internet or on the PC for a fitting driver. You can ignore Windows warnings about a non safe driver, the driver is from Microsoft itself, but they don't seem to trust it. After the driver installation, you should get a new COM port, you can check that in the Windows Device manager. On Linux you can list the USB devices with a lsusb or more detailed with lsusb -v in a command shell. The port should be accessible as a ttyacmx device, where x is a number 0, 1, 2.. depending on how much CDC devices you have installed. Try "ttyacm0" first when you need to specify the COM in BST, or PropTerminal for Linux. If this works then switch the PropinoPP off and put the Propeller chip into the 40 pin IC socket U1. This time the notch shows in the other direction than the one of the USB controller chip. 4. Quick start You need the PropellerTool or BST to test the PropinoPP and also the Propino-Demos ZIP from the PropinoPP homepage. This ZIP contains Spin drivers and examples. Extract the files to a directory called PropinoPP or so. I recommend to download PropTerminal for Windows or Linux from the insonix homepage. You can also use PST (Parallax Serial Terminal) for the following applications, but if you want to work with ApropOS later, you need the PropTerminal. You only need to copy the PropTerminal.exe into the PropellerTool directory, and make a desktop link for it. Now start the PropellerTool, switch the PropinoPP on and press F7. The Propeller chip should get recognized. Remember the COM port number that is shown. In PropTerminal you need to set the COM port number with the menu "Options - COM port" once. If you save it with "Save settings" in the file menu, you don't need to do this again on next start. Minimize then PropTerminal to give the COM port free. Load the Spin file "Propino_Config.spin" and press F10 to compile and load. Now switch to the Terminal (for PropTerminal just click on it in the task bar) then you should see "press a key" - do that and you get the current configuration settings of the USB controller chip. Don't move with the mouse over the terminal window. For now just set the defaults with the key "d". The SD boot pin should then be set to 20, this enables the SD bootloader. So on every reset or power on, the PropinoPP boots the file "boot.bin" from the SD card, thats why no EEPROM is necessary on the Propino board. Quit the config application now with "q". Now you can test the demos. The first demo blinks the red LED next to the SD card. The third demo is an extended "Hello World" and uses the Terminal. The further demos show how to access the special functions of the COG9U1 chip, like ADCs, DAC, EEPROM, RTC. page: 7/15

8 5. Options There are several optional parts on the PropinoPP board. Here they are described: EEPROM You don't need an EEPROM chip with the PropinoPP because the file "boot.bin" from the SD card gets started when you switch on the board. But it's also possible to add an EEPROM if you need one. There is a DIP footprint U4 for that under the Propelle chip. Don't use an IC socket, solder the EEPROM directly into the PCB, otherwise the Propeller chip will not fit anymore into its socket. You can use a 32kByte or a 64kByte I2C EEPROM. TV, Audio The AV jack plug can be used for a stereo Audio output, or a combined Video and mono audio out. Two of the 3 needed resistors of the TV circuit are already on the print, the third needs to be added at the Arduino header to get a TV output. For that you need the 560 Ohm resistor with the ring colors: green blue brown gold. Solder an adapter according the following picture and put it in the Header pins labeled with AV,13,12. You only need to remove this adapter if you want to plug in an Arduino shield. There are also OnePin TV drivers around, for that you don't need this resistor adapter. So you can have a TV output also with an Arduino shield. If you prefere RCA (cinch) connectors you can put a jack-to-rca adapter into the jack. Or you can use cables which have a jack connector and two RCA plugs. SPI Flash or RAM There are pads for an SPI Memory chip under the Propeller on the back side of the PCB. The main reason for this chip is to add flash memory for big C or C++ applications written with PropGCC. I sucessfully tested this with a W25Q16BV chip from Winbond. You get 2 Mbyte of Flash memory for a bit more then a dollar. If you want to use the PropinoPP with PropGCC you can download a config file and a flash driver on the PropinoPP homepage. You need to copy the two files "PropinoPP.cfg" and "3p_flash_cache.dat" to the propeller-load directory of propgcc. There are also some demos for C and an include file to access the COG9U1 functions. page: 8/15

9 Bluetooth module On the backside under the SD card you will find pads to solder in a bluetooth module. You can find a lot of cheap bluetooth modules on the web, which looks all the same, but have different firmware loaded. So be carefull to buy the right version, if you want to use the existing software. You need the HC-04 version that is only usable as a bluetooth slave up to kbaud. The cheapest source with free shipping I found for this module is dx.com look under Computer - Bluetooth and IrDA. Be aware: If you solder in the bluetooth module, it will be always on if the PropinoPP is powered. The module uses P24 and P25 for the serial connection to the Propeller, so you can't use a PS/2 mouse anymore. You also need to add an SMD resistor with 4.7kOhm (0805 footprint) to the pads on top of the bluetooth-pads. The bluetooth module allows a wireless serial connection to a PC or an Android phone/pad (maybe also ios). There are some Apps for Android available that lets you access the sensors of the phone from the PropinoPP. As an alternative you can also put in a 10pin module for bluetooth, this has the advantage that you can remove it and that it uses other pins (P16, P17 for example). PS2 Mouse The PS/2 connector allows to connect only a PS/2 keyboard or a mouse. But with a Split cable (Y cable) you can connect both a keyboard and a mouse. For that the ports P24 and P25 are wired on the PCB to the PS/2 connector in addition to P26 and P27. Be aware: If you install a bluetooth module under the SD card, you should not use the second PS/2 device. page: 9/15

10 PropPlug Connector There are 5 holes for a PropPlug and a 3.3V supply near the USB connector. Normally you don't need that, but there may be some applications which not works with a CDC type COM port. Then you can plug in a PropPlug - this overdrives the signals from the USBcontroller. Other uses for this connector are: You want to interface to an RS232 port with a SerPlug or a transistor circuit. Or you want not buy the USB-controller chip and use the PropinoPP PCB just with a PropPlug and an EEPROM. Pullup Resistors R2 An Arduino can enable pullup resistors on the D0..D7 header pins. Some shields need this, so you can optionally add a resistor array R2 next to the D0..D7 header. If you do so take high resistor values something like 47k.. 220k Ohm. Be aware that the dot is on the correct side. It may be a good idea to make it pluggable with a single row machined pin socket. Additional Bypass Capacitors There are some pads on the backside of the board to add more bypass capacitors, if you have problems with noise on the supply. One near the SD card, one under the Propeller chip, and one at the USB controller chip. They are normally not necessary and left out in the Assembly instructions because they are small SMD parts. If you want to add them then use 100nF capacitors with a 0805 package. Arduino Shields There are a lot of shields for the Arduino platform which can be put into the PropinoPP. But not all shields can work. There are some differences between an Arduino and the PropinoPP: First of all the logic level is 3.3V on Propeller systems and 5V for the Arduino. The header connections for D0 and D12 on the PropinoPP have both serial resistors to protect the Propeller from 5V signals. These pins are often outputs (D0=RX and D12=MISO) on the shields (and inputs for the processor). But there may be shields which also put 5V signals on other digital pins, then these shields can not be used with the PropinoPP, look carefully at the schematic of a shield before you use it. Some shields (the ones from arduino.cc) use the IDC connector as an SPI connection. On the PropinoPP we have no such IDC connector, so if you will use such a shield, you need to add 3 wires to the shield, which connect the IDC pins to the digital pins D11, D12 and D13. The Analog inputs A0..A5 work with 5V level also on the PropinoPP, so they should not make problems. The ADC on the PropinoPP works significantly slower than an Arduino because it is accessed serially over the COG9U1 chip. But like on the Arduino A0..A5 can also be used as I/O pins. So also an I2C implementation on the A4/A5 pins should be page: 10/15

11 possible. PropellerPlatform PP "shields" There are a number of add on boards for the PropellerPlatform (see GadgetGangsters.com) which should all also work with the PropinoPP. But some add on boards will use the same pins as the on board connectors of the PropinoPP, then these connectors can not be used anymore. Some boards just provide the functions which are anyway on the PropinoPP and are therefore not of much use. An interessting new possibility is to make PP Wings which can extend an Arduino shield in the middle to both sides. The PP Wing with the ports P0..P15 shares most pins with the Arduino shield, the one with P16..P31 is independent from the shield (but shares the port pins with SD, PS/2, EEPROM, Serial on the PropinoPP. page: 11/15

12 10pin Modules An inofficial standard is the 10pin pinout around the Propeller chip on the ProtoBoards. Several people have made moduls which fits for this 10pin footprint. The big advantage over Arduino and PP shields is that you can have more than one module on a PCB, so it is more modular. The second advantage is that the modules are smaller and scalable. And finally it's very simple to build your own modules with protype hole boards. Then there are the PMOD modules from digilent-inc, which use the same pinout as the first 6 pins of a 10pin module. So also the single row PMODs can be used. And there is a cheap LCD module with the Nokia3310 display with 8 pins which fits also direct into a 10pin module header. page: 12/15

13 6. PP only variation The board layout allows also a PropellerPlatform only assembly variation. In this case you need to add the EEPROM (64kBytes recommended) and a 4-pin header for the PropPlug connection. The power comes still over the USB connector, but without USB communication ability. You can have also the SD card, the PS/2 and Audio/TV connectors. Only the Arduino Analog header makes no sense without the USB controller chip. All the other connectors works also in this configuration. If you anyway add PP addon-boards with such functions, or you don't need this functions you don't need to assembly them, so they are colored green in the following picture. Also with this assembly variation you can later add the missing components and get a full featured PropinoPP. page: 13/15

14 7. Schematic, Version BOM with DigiKey part numbers. 3 parts you will not get at DigiKey, you need to buy them from These are the SD socket, the jack plug, and the USB-Controller chip COG9U1. While you can buy the SD socket and the jack at Farnell/Newark, this is not possible for the COG9U1, which is a USB controller with custom, non open firmware. There may also be full kits to buy at insonix.ch check the PropinoPP homepage for that. page: 14/15

15 PropinoPP BOM and sources Part DigiKey C ND C ND C ND D ND D2 1N4148TACT-ND Q ND Q2 X907-ND R1 4608X-1-103LF-ND R3 CF14JT4K70CT-ND R4 CF14JT270RCT-ND R5 CF14JT270RCT-ND R6 CF14JT1K10CT-ND R7 CF14JT1K10CT-ND R8 CF14JT270RCT-ND R9 CF14JT560RCT-ND S1 CKN9102-ND S2 CKN9559-ND U1 P8X32A-D40-ND U1 3M5471-ND U2 3M5465-ND U3 TLV IDCYR X1 S7008-ND X2 S7006-ND X3 S7004-ND X4 S7004-ND X5 S7002-ND X6 S6103-ND X7 S7014-ND X8 S7016-ND X9 CP-2460-ND X12 WM17115-ND Total $ Price Description 100nF 4,7uF Tantal 100nF LED 3mm red low current 1N4148 5MHz crystal 12MHz resonator SIL 10k 8 or 9pin 4.7 kohm 270 Ohm 270 Ohm 1.1 kohm 1.1 kohm 270 Ohm 560 Ohm (for TV) Reset Tactile Switch Power Slide Switch Propeller P8X32 DIL40 IC socket DIP-40 IC socket DIP-20 TLV Voltage Reg. 10pin Header (Arduino) 8pin Header (Arduino) 6pin Header (Arduino) 6pin Header (Arduino) 4pin Header (PP) 5pin Header (PP) 16pin Header (PP) 18pin Header (PP) MiniDIN 6 (PS/2) USB B mini T/H Not from DigiKey U2 Insonix.ch COG9U1 X10 Farnell: X11 Farnell: USB-controller (preprogrammed PIC) 3.5mm Jack SMD (AV) SD Socket open Optional U4 U5 R2 Cs R10 X EEROM 24LC256 (optional) SPI Flash 2 Mbyte SIL 100k 8 or 9pin (optional) SMD C nF 3x 4,7 kohm SMD 0805 (optional) Bluetooth Module 24LC256-E/P-ND W25Q16BVSSIG 4608X-1-104LF-ND ND P4.7KACT-ND dx.com page: 15/15