IQ32 Upgrade Kit Assembly Instructions Jim Veatch WA2EUJ September 17, 2018
TABLE OF CONTENTS 1. INTRODUCTION... 3 2. IQ-32 UPGRADE KIT INVENTORY... 4 3. PREPARING THE RS-HFIQ AND SIDE PANELS... 6 4. CONNECTING THE IQ32 TO THE RS-HFIQ... 9 5. CASE ASSEMBLY... 11 6. POWERING ON THE IQ32... 18 7. CONNECTIONS... 19 2
1. INTRODUCTION Thank you for your purchase of the IQ32 upgrade kit. The purpose of the kit is to upgrade a HobbyPCB RS-HFIQ HF QRP SDR transceiver to a HobbyPCB IQ32 stand-alone transceiver. THE RS-HFIQ IS NOT INCLUDED WITH THIS KIT The upgrade process is mostly mechanical assembly with a minor amount of soldering required. The following items are required for assembly but not supplied with the kit: Soldering iron A small temperature controlled unit is the best. Solder Rosin core, fairly thin Screwdrivers #1 Philips, small jewelers screwdriver Wire Stripper for #22 wire Scissors Long Nose Pliers Nutdrivers 7/16 and 9/32 to tighten the knobs Black electrical tape 1-2 HobbyPCB RS-HFIQ transceiver board 3
2. IQ-32 UPGRADE KIT INVENTORY PART ID DESCRIPTION PICTURE QUANTITY R-PANEL RIGHT SIDE PANEL 1 L-PANEL LEFT SIDE PANEL 1 T-PANEL TOP PANEL 1 CASE HAMMOND 1455N1601BK WITH THUMBSCREWS 1 -STAND TILT STAND LEG 2 IQ32-PCB IQ32 PCB ASSEMBLY WITH LCD 1 4
CASE SCREW PAN HEAD SCREW #6-32X3/8 BLACK FINISH 6 P-SWITCH SNAP-IN SPST POWER SWITCH 1 P-CABLE 6 TWO CONDUCTOR RED/BLACK CABLE WITH 2 PIN HEADER 1 A-HEADER 30 PIN HEADER 1 LARGE-KNOB 40mm KNOB BLACK 1 SMALL-KNOB 20mm KNOB BLACK 1 LARGE-CAP 40mm KNOB CAP GRAY 1 SMALL-CAO 20mm KNOB CAP GRAY 1 SERIAL-NO Serial Number Label 1 5
3. PREPARING THE RS-HFIQ AND SIDE PANELS STEP 1: Remove the RS-HFIQ board form any previous case or mounting hardware. Remove all connections to the board from other system components. Remove the light pipes from the LEDs if installed. STEP 2: Remove the six plastic jumpers from JP1 and JP2. Also remove anything that is connected to the power switch header. If you had the RS-HFIQ in the HobbyPCB supplied case, you may be able to reuse the power switch assembly but disconnect it for now. Bend the power switch header up about 45 from the board to make it easier to attach the power switch assembly when it is time to do so (not now). STEP 3: Remove the Arduino Nano processor board by inserting a small screwdriver under the end with the USB connector and gently prying it up from the RS-HFIQ board. Then insert the screw driver under the other end of the Nano and gently pry up the other end. Repeat this procedure until the Nano comes free from the RS-HFIQ board. It should look like this when you are done: 6
STEP 4: Add solder to SJ1 and SJ2 on the bottom side of the board. SJ1 and SJ2 are located here: You need to add solder until a solder bridge forms between the two pads of the solder jumper. Make certain NOT to connect all four pads with a single solder blob. It should look like this when you are done: These solder jumpers increase the gain in the TX path allowing the IQ32 to drive the RS-HFIQ s transmitter sufficiently. If you ever decide to remove the RS-HFIQ from the IQ32, you can leave these solder jumpers on place because the level is compatible with soundcards as well. 7
STEP 4: Apply four small squares of black electrical tape to the left and right side panels as shown. Note that the tape goes on the opposite side of the panel from the silkscreen. The purpose of these tape squares is to make up for manufacturing tolerances between the length of the extrusion and the length of the front panel. If there is a gap between the side and top panels the top panel will feel loose and may rattle. The tape insures a a tight fit. 8
4. CONNECTING THE IQ32 TO THE RS-HFIQ STEP 1: Insert 15 pins of the 30 pin header into one side of the Arduino header on the bottom of the IQ32 board (not the RS-HFIQ board). The best way to do this is start with one end with the header at a slight angle and work down the row of pins engaging one at a time rather than attempt to engage all 15 pins at once. STEP 2: Fully seat the header into the socket, note that the pins are longer than the socket depth so some of the pins will be visible above the socket, this is OK. Using diagonal cutters, carefully cut off the 15 pins that are not in socket. 9
STEP 3: Insert the remaining 15 pins in the other side of the Arduino header again starting at one end and working towards the other until the header is fully seated. STEP 4: The solder tabs on the USB connector on the IQ32 board interfere with the BNC connector on the RS-HFIQ and must be trimmed, I trimmed most of them but check and trim them if they aren t or the boards won t slide into the case properly. Connect the IQ32 and RS-HFIQ boards. The Arduino headers will engage first then the three 2X6 headers. 10
5. CASE ASSEMBLY STEP 1: Cut the two conductor cable assembly so to a length of about 3 (75mm). Strip the ends of each wire, twist the strands and tin with the soldering iron. STEP 2: Form the tinned ends of the wire into hooks and solder then to the two terminals of the power switch. It does not matter which wire goes to which terminal. Be sure to use an absolute minimum of heat when soldering to the switch, it is very easy to melt the body of the switch. Touch the soldering iron to the wire, not the switch terminal, add a small amount of solder and remove the heat as soon as the solder flows. Do not move the switch for 1 minute to allow the assembly to cool down. STEP 3: Snap the power switch into the right side panel with the ON legend next to the 13.8 on the silk screen. 11
STEP 4: Orient the case extrusion as shown and remove the thumb screw on the left side of the case. STEP 5: Use three of the 6-32X3/8 screws to attach the left side panel to the left side of the extrusion. The insert the thumbscrew through the hole into one the tilt stand legs and screw the thumbscrew into its original location in the case. 12
STEP 6: Slide the mated IQ32/RS-HFIQ boards into the extrusion from the right side. There should be 2 open slots below the RS-HFIQ, 3 open slots between the boards and 4 open slots above the IQ32. If the boards are in the correct slots, the 3.5mm connectors on the right side will line up perfectly. 13
STEP 7: Slide the mated boards back out of the extrusion enough to connect the power switch cable to the power switch header on the RS-HFIQ board. It helps to set the extrusion on the side and use long-nose pliers to put the connector on the header. STEP 8: Route the power switch cable through the opening in the IQ32 board which next to the keyboard connector. Line the right up with the right end of the boards. 14
STEP 9: Remove the protective covering from the LCD; you won t be able to do it later. Slide the boards almost all the way out of the extrusion being careful not to let them come all the way out. STEP 10: Sit the top panel in place over the encoder shaft and set it into the grooves in the top of the extrusion. The notches in the top panel allow you to set one side in first then slide the other side in. STEP 11: Slide the top panel and the boards all the way into the extrusion. You may need to wiggle the top panel side to side in order to clear the screws that hold the left side panel on. 15
STEP 12: Remove the thumbscrew from the right side of the extrusion, line up the right side panel. Use three of the 6-32X3/8 screws to attach the right side panel to the right side of the extrusion. The insert the thumbscrew through the hole into one the tilt stand legs and screw the thumbscrew into its original location in the case. STEP 13: Install the 40mm and 20mm knobs using a 9/32 and 7/16 nut driver, respectively. The knobs have built-in push-button switches so leave enough space between the knob and the top panel for the switch to operate. For the 40mm knob, you can use a single piece of 0.063 (1.6mm) PCB material as a shim. For the 20mm knob use two pieces. Test the knob to insure that the switch operates properly, if not, loosen the nut and adjust the knob position. 16
STEP 14: Install the 40mm and 20mm knob caps. STEP 15: Affix the serial number label on the left side above the headphone jack. Assembly Complete! 17
6. POWERING ON THE IQ32 You will need a 13.8V DC power supply with a current rating of at least 2A to transmit with the IQ32. For receive only any supply from 9-15VDC with a current rating of at least 0.5A will be sufficient. The connector is a 5mm X 2.1mm barrel connector, with the positive voltage in the center. Make sure that the power switch is off, connect your power supply and turn on the IQ32. You will see a splash appear on the display. The first time the IQ32 is turned on the firmware is performing some housekeeping functions that take a few seconds. After the first time the IQ32 will initialize faster. Once the IQ32 is properly initialized, a screen calibration routine will appear: Follow the on-screen instructions to calibrate the touch screen. This calibration can be rerun through one of the menus or by pressing both encoders during power-on. Complete operating instructions are available at www.hobbypcb.com. 18
7. CONNECTIONS RIGHT SIDE 1 Power Switch 2 Power Amp connection 3.5mm, TRS, Tip Band Data, Ring PTT, Sleeve Ground 3 Power Connector 5mm X 2.1mm, center positive 4 PS2 Keyboard Connector 5 USB Type A 6 Antenna connection, BNC LEFT SIDE 1 RX I/Q Output 3.5mm TRS, Tip I, Ring Q, Sleeve Ground 2 Headphone Output - 3.5mm TRS, Tip Left, Ring Right, Sleeve Ground 3 Speaker/Mic 3.5mm TRRS, Tip SPKR, Ring 1 MIC, Ring 2 PTT, Sleeve Ground 4 CWW Key 3.5mm TRS, Tip Dit, Ring Dot, Sleeve Ground 19