HUB-ee BMD-S Arduino Proto Shield V1.0 User guide and assembly instructions Document Version 1.0 Introduction 2 Schematic 3 Quick user guide 4 Assembly 5 1) DIP Switches 5 2) Micro-MaTch Connector Headers 6 3) Reset Switch 7 4) Power Capacitors 8 5) Pin Headers 9 6) Screw Terminal 10 7) Arduino Pin Headers 11 DISCLAIMER OF LIABILITY While we always try to provide accurate information, there may be times when factual, technical or typographical inaccuracies appear in our documentation. We apologise if this happens and we reserve the right to make changes and corrections at any time, without notice. Creative Robotics expressly disclaims liability for errors or omissions in the content of this document and makes no commitment to update the information contained in this documentation. Creative Robotics expressly disclaims all liability for the interpretation and use by others of any information contained in this document. All products are subject to change without prior notice. Creative Robotics disclaims any responsibility for errors, omissions or inaccuracies in product documentation or any other data relating to our products. Creative Robotics disclaims any responsibility for loss, damage or harm caused directly or indirectly by the use of our products. (Basically: be careful, have fun but if you mess up then don t blame us) Arduino is a trademark of the Arduino Team (www.arduino.cc). Page 1
Introduction This board makes it easy to connect up a pair of HUB-ee wheels to an Arduino Uno or Leonardo board. You can power two wheels and get full sensor feedback via their quadrature encoder sensors. Each wheel drive port has a second slave connector so you can connect a second wheel to this and drive it from the same control signals as the first. Sensor signals from the slave ports are available via a set of headers. The board has a pair of dual DIP switches so you can disconnect the wheel sensors, freeing up four of the Arduino pins for other purposes, and a prototyping area to add your own stuff. Version 1.0Errors: 1 All the pads around the edge of the prototyping area are connected together. 2 The headers for Servo 1 and 2 are labelled incorrectly Servo 1 connects to Arduino Pin D5 and Servo 2 to Arduino Pin D6 (Not D6 and D7 as it says on the board) Board guide Page 2
Schematic Page 3
Quick User Guide Power Supply: This board has inputs for a main power source and will feed anything connected into the Arduino Vin pin. If you connect a power source that is outside the range that the Arduino can cope with you will risk damaging your board. There are NO power input protection diodes so accidentally reversing the polarity of a power supply could damage the board and anything connected to it. Because of the way the Arduino power supply works when you plug it into a USB port to program it you will get approximately 4.5V appearing on the Arduino Vin pin if the board is not powered externally This voltage will then start to power any HUB-ee wheels or servos attached to the board. This can be annoying if you actually want your creation to sit still whilst you download a new sketch so the shield has a jumper called Motor Power that can disconnect the wheel and servo power supply from the rest of the system. We recommend removing the jumper when downloading sketches unless your creation is being powered externally from a battery or other power supply Arduino to HUB-ee Pin Mappings HUB-ee Pin Arduino Pin Motor 1: In1 Pin 8 In2 Pin 11 PWM Pin 9 StBy NOT CONNECTED QEI-A Pin 3 (Connected via a DIP Switch) QEI-B Pin 7 (Connected via a DIP Switch) Motor 2: In1 Pin 12 In2 Pin 13 PWM Pin 10 StBy NOT CONNECTED QEI-A Pin 2 (Connected via a DIP Switch) QEI-B Pin 4 (Connected via a DIP Switch) The QEI-A outputs of motor 1 and 2 are connected to the two interrupt on change pins of the Arduino (see note below about UNO and Leonardo interrupt pin differences) The QEI-B pins are not connected to interrupt on change inputs. This configuration will let you reliably measure wheel motion at 64 counts per revolution, but not the maximum possible 128 CPI. All four of the QEI outputs from the two main HUB-ee sockets (Motor 1 and 2) can be disconnected from their respective Arduino pins using the DIP switches. If you don t want or need the sensor feedback then you can disconnect them and use the Arduino pins for something else. The two additional HUB-ee connectors allow you to connect extra wheels that will work in sync with the main wheels but without any sensor feedback Plug a wheel into the Motor2b socket and it will get the same control signals as the wheel in Motor1a. Page 4
Assembly guide 1 DIP Switches It is always a good idea to start with the smallest components so let s start with the DIP switches. These go in the centre of the board towards the bottom. The switches each have the word ON at one end. Make sure this is at the top as shown in the close up picture before turning the board over and soldering them in. Page 5
2 Micro-MaTch connector headers The red Micro-MaTch connectors allow you to connect the HUB-ee wheels to the board, there are four of these and they should clip easily into the board these connectors can go in any way round. Once they are clipped in place turn the board over and solder them. Page 6
3 Reset Switch Clip in the reset switch this allows you to reset the Arduino when the shield is in place then solder it in. Page 7
4 Power Capacitors The board has room for four electrolytic capacitors. These help smooth out the power supply and are important when running power hungry things like motors. These capacitors are polarised, meaning they have to go in the correct way round. Their polarity is marked in two ways, by having a longer lead on the positive side, and having a band down the other side of the case marked with a (minus sign). Solder these in place then trim off the leads. Page 8
5 Pin Headers Time to insert and solder a few pin headers these are for the servos, motor power jumper, power input and UART. You do not need to solder all these in place if you don t want to, you may prefer to leave some off so you can solder wires to the board instead. If you are going to solder these headers in then here is a handy tip place all the headers in the board, then place something flat (like a piece of wood or plastic) on top of the board. Now turn the whole thing over and the header pins won t all fall out now you can solder them all in at once. Insert the pin headers then place a piece of board on the top. Now turn the whole thing over. The board will keep the pins in place so you can solder them. Page 9
6 Screw Terminal The screw terminal allows you to connect a power source easily. Stick it in the board and solder it on. Make sure the cable entry holes are on the outside! Page 10
7 Arduino pin headers (The final step!) Now we need to solder on the long pin headers that connect the shield to the Arduino these go on the bottom of the PCB. One of the easiest ways to do this (to ensure the headers go in straight) is to insert the long ends of the headers into an Arduino before placing the board on top and soldering them in place. Put the pins into the Arduino sockets to keep them straight when soldering. Now place the shield on top, and solder the pins in place Page 11
The finished board, next to an Arduino Leonardo. Page 12