Evil Mad Scientist Laboratories

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1 Light Emitting Pegboard Display Panel Kits An open-source hardware+software project designed by Evil ad cientist Laboratories aking the World a Better Place, One Evil ad cientist at a ime Distributed by Evil ad cience LLC upport: Kit version 1.1 anual: ev. B

our ounting holes: 4 corners for panel mounting op center: Hang a nail op 1/4,3/4: hang a

1 cm) he 2 ows and 2 columns are numbered along the edges, 0-24 LED Field: Each location has

just as well. ransistors and resistors along left edge of LED field.

2 our ounting holes: 4 corners for panel mounting op center: Hang a nail op 1/4,3/4: hang a string Printed circuit board: Overall size: 12 x 1 (30. x 38.1 cm) he 2 ows and 2 columns are numbered along the edges, 0-24 LED Field: Each location has room for a 10 mm LED, although smaller mm (-1 3/4, standard size ) and 3 mm LEDs will work just as well. ransistors and resistors along left edge of LED field. (U Quarter for scale) Big CPU: Amega14, an AV microcontroller. Also: light sensor, switches, buttons, places to hack in... Bottom center and right: power management 1

Detailed tour: Lower left corner of board Optional AV-IP interface: leave empty by default. [Fits a -pin DIL header-- you ll need a programming interface too.

3 Detailed tour: Lower left corner of board Optional AV-IP interface: leave empty by default. [Fits a -pin DIL header-- you ll need a programming interface too.] U1: Amega14P microcontroller in a 40-pin socket. Pay attention to the orientation. Extra holes are provided to access most pins directly. (Can also work with Amega324P or 44P.) Normally empty Light sensor and switch. Default behavior: On all the time with teady setting. urns off when it sees sunlight or incandescent light when on Auto setting. Optional clock area: leave empty by default. [Can use a 3-pin ceramic resonator or a (two-pin) low power crystal along with two caps.] On button actually resets microcontroller. (Other functions are handled in software, can potentially be changed.) 2

4 Detailed our: Lower center of board wo horizontal rows: possible places to put resistors; Usually all L locations are filled and all J locations are left empty Battery box will go here... Normally empty. Four resistors will end up here. Optional power jack 3

5 What do you make of this? Our standard assembly instructions, beginning on the next page, will produce a static pegboard display, that will light up LEDs in whichever locations you choose to install them, with near-uniform illumination. hey will be driven in an energy-efficient multiplexed arrangement and the infrared light sensor can be used to turn on the display when it gets dark. eprogramming the smart display is possible, however note that the LEDs are not individually addressable. Hardware hackers may want to flip through the schematics (pages 13-1) before going further to see if inspiration strikes. It is, for example, potentially possible to reconfigure this display to produce limited, simple animations-- with additional electronics and programming. any other hacks and mods are possible as well-- the circuit board was actually designed with hacking in mind. Places have been left to put certain extra components that you might want and holes have been added to allow direct access to the microcontroller pins. If you do wish to reprogram the display, you will need to supply a -pin DIL header and an AV hardware programmer with a -pin IP interface. (We recommend the UBtinyIP by Adafruit Industries.) 4

side. 2. Add resistors A2, B0-B24 1.0 k resistor (Brown-Black-ed-Gold), installed in 2 places. JP2, JP3 1 A1 - A4 B0-B24 are located along the left side of the circuit board.

6 Assembly: First steps (Lower left corner of printed circuit board) 1. Add resistors A1, A3, A4.1 k resistors (Green-Brown-ed-Gold), installed in 3 places. Implied procedure for components like this: Bend the leads of a resistor as shown Place it in the circuit board, at its location older the two pins from the back side Clip off extra leads on back side. 2. Add resistors A2, B0-B k resistor (Brown-Black-ed-Gold), installed in 2 places. JP2, JP3 1 A1 - A4 B0-B24 are located along the left side of the circuit board. Note: Be careful to avoid making solder bridges between the pins. 3. Add wire jumpers JP2, JP3 Jumpers are Zero-ohm resistors (One black stripe), installed in 2 places. 4. Add slider switch 1 atch the part to the white outline drawing on the circuit board. older all five pins.

Assembly: ore stuff to solder. Install socket for U1 A 40-pin DIP socket. C3 Orientation matters. atch the half-moon shape at one end of the socket to the one drawn on the circuit board.

7 Assembly: ore stuff to solder. Install socket for U1 A 40-pin DIP socket. C3 Orientation matters. atch the half-moon shape at one end of the socket to the one drawn on the circuit board. older it in place. (ame for chip, later.) U1. Install capacitor C uf electrolytic cap Orientation matters. he NEGAIVE side of the + - capacitor is marked with a broad white stripe. older it with this negative side towards - on the circuit board. C 2 and 3 QA1 7. Install capacitor C 1 uf ceramic cap (Orientation: Either way.) Capacitor C BC 10Z 9. Install phototransistor QA1 L-3208E, infrared sensor with dark lens 8. Add tactile button switches 2 and 3 atch the parts to the drawing on the circuit board. Orientation matters. Long lead goes in the square hole. he flat face of the sensor lines up with the outline drawing. Orientation: pins stick out on left and right sides, not top and bottom. older all four pins of each switch. Phototransistor QA1 (Flat face)

Q0 - Q24, Along left side of board L0-L2 are in a wavy row at the bottom of the LED field.

8 Assembly: esistors & ransistors, oh my 10. Add resistors L0- L2 7 ohm resistor (Violet-Green-Black-Gold), installed in 2 places. Q0 - Q24, Along left side of board L0-L2 are in a wavy row at the bottom of the LED field. Note: J0-J2 should be left empty. 11. Add transistors Q0-Q24, 2N4401 NPN transistors, installed in 2 places. Orientation matters. atch the flat face of the transistors to the drawing on the board. Flat face L0 -L2 7

Assembly: Power supply details (Lower right corner of printed circuit board) Procedure depends on the type of ac adapter (if any) that you are using: Battery

V DC) International Power supply ( V DC) 4 Jumper JP1 Install Empty Empty Power Jack J2 Empty Install Install Power source switch 4 Empty Install Install Diode

V power supply) Install power jack J2, witch 4 and Install wire jumper (Zero-ohm resistor) in location DP1. Location JP1 is left empty. DP1 JP1 12.

9 Assembly: Power supply details (Lower right corner of printed circuit board) Procedure depends on the type of ac adapter (if any) that you are using: Battery Only (4. V DC) U/Canada Power supply (4. V DC) International Power supply ( V DC) 4 Jumper JP1 Install Empty Empty Power Jack J2 Empty Install Install Power source switch 4 Empty Install Install Diode DP1 Empty Use wire jumper Can still run on battery No. (Just kidding) Yes Use chottky diode Yes J2 12. (U/Canada 4. V power supply) Install power jack J2, witch 4 and Install wire jumper (Zero-ohm resistor) in location DP1. Location JP1 is left empty. DP1 JP1 12. (Battery only) Install a wire jumper (Zero-ohm resistor) in location JP1. J2, 4, and DP1 are left empty. 12. (International V power supply) Install power jack J2, witch 4 and Install chottky diode in location DP1. Location JP1 is left empty. (Adding your own external power? ake sure it s well regulated, protected, and capable of at least 00 ma.) 8

Install Battery Box 13. Add battery box Held in place with cable ties, wired up with a pair of wire jumpers. (Note: If you have an alternate power source, e.g.

10 Install Battery Box 13. Add battery box Held in place with cable ties, wired up with a pair of wire jumpers. (Note: If you have an alternate power source, e.g., you plan to run from an AC adapter all the time, you can skip this step without ill effect.) older lug at positive terminal of battery box (Positive terminal) Battery box goes here. Pay attention to the orientation Attach to circuit board with cable ties through the double hole sets Add a zero-ohm jumper from the solder lug to the GND_IN pin on the board. hen, repeat for the positive terminal of the battery box, hooking up to VCC_IN1. older lug at negative terminal of battery box Note: when soldering to the two solder lugs, be quick-- the plastic of the battery box can melt if you aren t careful. 9

Assembly: Adding Chip & LEDs 14. Add microcontroller U1 he Amega14P chip goes in the 40-pin socket from step.

Do not bend them by hand; bend all pins on one side at a time by pushing them against a hard flat surface. he chip goes into the socket with firm, even pressure.

3 mm, mm, and 8 mm LEDs will work just fine. Put them where you like, or everywhere.

It is recommended that only blue, green, white, and purple LEDs be used-- some resistors may need to be adjusted if you wish to use other LED colors instead.

11 Assembly: Adding Chip & LEDs 14. Add microcontroller U1 he Amega14P chip goes in the 40-pin socket from step. Pay attention to the orientation If necessary, bend the leads of the chip to straight up and down before inserting the chip into the socket. Do not bend them by hand; bend all pins on one side at a time by pushing them against a hard flat surface. he chip goes into the socket with firm, even pressure. From end of chip: NO YE LED Field 1. Add LEDs to the LED field. he board accommodates up to 2 LEDs in standard sizes up to 10 mm. 3 mm, mm, and 8 mm LEDs will work just fine. Put them where you like, or everywhere. For standard types of LEDs, the long lead goes in the square hole (the one on the left), and the flat face of the LED package matches the drawing on the circuit board. It is recommended that only blue, green, white, and purple LEDs be used-- some resistors may need to be adjusted if you wish to use other LED colors instead. ixing red/orange/yellow with blue/green/white types does not generally work well. For reference, each LED location is labeled DXXYY, where XX is the row number and YY is the column number. If you do not fill all the holes and wish to blacken the unused labels, a black permanent marker works well. Long lead Flat face Long lead into square hole ee additional notes on following page. 10

12 LED placement tricks Alternative build idea #1: put all the LEDs on the back side of the circuit board. In this case, the long lead still goes in the square hole. Normal: Long lead into square hole When the grid really won t do, the LEDs can go between grid locations And so forth... Bend out Bend down For all variations: ide of LED with long lead still goes to square hole. ide with flat still goes to round hole. 11

Wrapping it up Last step: Add the rubber feet Attach one rubber foot in each corner on the back side of the circuit board-- make sure that the circuit board lies flat on these bumpers, not on wire

13 Wrapping it up Last step: Add the rubber feet Attach one rubber foot in each corner on the back side of the circuit board-- make sure that the circuit board lies flat on these bumpers, not on wire leads. hese will help to avoid accidental short circuits, as well as protect your wall if you hang it up by a hook or string. An open-source project he hardware and software designs used in this project are being released under an open-source license. For more information, please see: he firmware is written in AV-GCC, and we d love to see what you can do with it Got pictures? If you have interesting pictures of things built using this kit or the hardware or software designs, we d love to see them in the Evil ad cience Auxiliary: 12

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An open-source hardware+software project. For design files and additional documentation, please visit:

An open-source hardware+software project. For design files and additional documentation, please visit: http://www.evilmadscientist.com/go/diavolino Support: http://www.evilmadscientist.com/forum/ Distributed