v3.01, June 2018 1 Part 2: Building the Controller Board Congratulations for making it this far! The controller board uses smaller components than the wing boards, which believe it or not, means that everything is actually easier to solder. Surface mount components We supply the controller board with the surface mount components already reflow soldered onto the PCB. For your reference the components are: Voltage regulator. Converts the incoming 14 volt supply down to 5 volts for the microcontroller. Diodes. One diode is used to separate the Taxi input power source from the Strobe input power source. Two smaller diodes are part of the circuit that allows the tail LED to act as both a strobe and a position light. N-channel power MOSFETs. These little miracles will switch 45 amps of current all day long, and have an on resistance of only 0.02 ohms. In this circuit, they only switch ~5-6 amps for the strobe flash duration, so they generate very little heat. In years gone by, this control circuit would have required large switching transistors that came in steel bodies, all mounted on a large and heavy heatsink. High-Side smart power switches are the tiny 8 pin devices that control the landing lights. Component side
2 Mounting holes The first thing to do is adjust the mounting holes for the controller board if required. The larger holes in each corner are spaced to fit a Hammond 1591XXSFL box. Most of our previous customers have chosen to use the supplied stand-offs and simply mount the bare board out of the way somewhere in the plane. You will need to enlarge these holes to 4mm or 5/32 or thereabouts to use the standoffs. If you are upgrading your controller board from an existing Flyleds kit, there are small pilot holes nearby that align with the holes on the previous controller board. Drill these out to 4mm or 5/32 if required. Assembly With circuit board construction, it is easier to start off with the smaller components, and work your way up in size. 1: Resistors The resistors are supplied taped together in groups, and have been marked with their values, just to make it easy for you! Pull the tape off a group of resistors such as the 100R resistors (R is shorthand for 100Ω or ohm). Fold their legs over and insert them into their allocated slots. We like to see them all oriented the same way please! (They can go either way around, but just like turning all the screws you can find to 90⁰ angles, your plane will fly at least one knot faster...) Bend their legs apart slightly as shown so that the resistor stays in place tight to the board when you solder them in. Repeat the process for all of the other groups of resistors. 2: Diodes Repeat the process above for the three 1N4148 diodes. Note that the diode has a black band around one end. The diode must be mounted with the black band to the right, as marked on the PCB, otherwise there will be no blinking lights 3: Solder the components in! You can solder these components all at once, or perhaps one group of resistors at a time. Touch the tip of the iron to both the circuit board and the component leg, and after a few seconds introduce some solder to the joint. You can cheat by adding the first little bit of solder directly to the iron tip where it will melt and get the heat flowing into the PCB and the component leg. The majority of the solder that you add should be melted by the component and pad, not the iron. Leave the iron there a few more seconds to let the flux inside the solder do its cleaning work and then remove the iron. A few seconds later the solder cools and sets, and you should have a nice smooth looking joint around each leg.
3 4: You can now mount the IC socket for the microcontroller. One end of the socket has a notch taken out of it, which aligns with the asterisk (*) on the PCB. The holes for the IC socket are plated-through, which means the top and bottom pads are connected together through the hole. With the extra metal involved you might observe that you need another second or three of heat to get a nice looking solder joint. Solder one pin first, then check that the socket is still mounted flush to the board. Reheat the joint and manipulate the socket if necessary to let it sit properly. If you re still a bit new to soldering, continue to solder the rest of the pins in place, but pick pins on alternate sides and ends of the socket, just like you would tighten up a cylinder head on a car engine. That way extra the heat build-up won t melt the plastic socket. 5: Insert the LEDs. The longer leg of each LED is the + lead and it goes in the lower hole. Again, bend the leads apart slightly to stop the LED falling out when you turn the board over to solder them in. Feel free to submit your guesses via email as to how we picked the colours! 6: Moving across to the right hand side, insert and solder the four-way DIP switch, checking that it is oriented as shown. 7: Next fit the 15 pin D connector. Make sure the pins are straight and carefully push it into place. There are plated through holes here as well, so a little extra heat/time may be needed with your iron. 8: The green four pin socket for the landing lights can be mounted next. 9: Mount the 1.5Ω ceramic power resistor for the tail strobe. 10: Mount the two smaller capacitors. 22uF goes above the resistors, 100uF above the diodes. Note the orientation as per the diagram, and the + symbol marked on the PCB. The longer leg of the capacitors is the + terminal. (The body of the capacitor highlights the terminal, just to keep you on your toes!) 11: Mount the 2200uF capacitor, by observing the + sign on the silkscreen and inserting the longer leg of the capacitor there. Double check this one before soldering it in! 12: The PIC16F1578 microcontroller can now be inserted into the IC socket, however the legs are usually spread too wide to fit straight into the socket. Hold the body of the chip so that one side of legs is against your workbench, and gently roll the chip forward so that the legs are almost 90⁰ to the body. Turn the chip over and make the legs on the other side parallel with the first. You can now carefully insert the controller IC into the socket. The IC is held in by a friction fit, and does not need to be soldered to the socket. Note the small detent and/or notch in the chip, which marks pin 1 and corresponds with the * on the PCB. That s it! You re done!
4 The Blink Test Using your square 9 volt battery, connect the battery to GROUND (pin 1) and battery+ to STROBE+ (pin 10). Configure switches 1 and 2 and you will see the different flash patterns in action with the on-board LEDs. Hours of fun! Applying power to GROUND (pin 1) and TAXI+ (pin 9), the Taxi LED will illuminate, as well as the Left, Right and Tail LEDs at reduced brightness. Applying your 9 volt battery to GROUND (pin 1) and the green plug LNDG +12v pin, observe the landing LED will light up. By connecting the battery+ to both LNDG +12v and Wigwag pins, the landing LED will alternate between dim and bright, representing the left and right landing light outputs being active. Connector pinout The label colours shown at right describe the wire groups and functions. The red labels are the four connections to the left wing. The green labels are the four connections to the right wing. The blue labels are the + and - connections, plus shield, to the tail LED. Airframe Ground is connected to pin 1, which then connects to pin 7 for tail light wire shielding, and to pins 2 and 14 for the ground return for the wing position LEDs. Position light power is applied to pin 5 POSITION +12v IN, which then feeds +12v out to the red and green position LEDs on pins 4 &13. Strobe power is applied to pin 10 STROBE +12v IN, which then feeds +12v out directly to the left and right wing strobe LEDs on pins 11 & 12 and Tail pin 15. Taxi power is applied to pin 9 TAXI +12v IN, which also feeds power out to the strobe LEDs on pins 11, 12 & 15. The strobe LEDs on the wings and tail flash when the switching MOSFETs switch the negative side of each light circuit to ground. This is why the strobe negative wires must be connected back to the controller board. LNDG +12v is the power input for the landing lights, and it should be protected by a 7.5 or 10 amp fuse or circuit breaker. L and R are switched 12 volt outputs for the landing lights on each wing. The landing lights should be grounded locally at the wing. Applying power to both LNDG +12v and Wigwag will enable the wigwag function.
Operating modes Position lights Applying 12 volt power to Pin 5 Position +IN connects power back out to the left and right wingtips on Pin 4 and 13 respectively. The controller board also illuminates the tail strobe at 10% power so it acts as a position light. The orange Position LED and the yellow Tail LED illuminates. Strobe lights Applying 12 volt power to Pin 10 STROBE+ activates the strobe function. The on board red switches change the configuration of the flash pattern. Switch 1 2/4 strb selects whether the wings flash two or four times each. Switch 2 slo/fast selects a slower or faster flash pattern. The Left, Right and Tail LEDs display the flash pattern selected. Taxi Lights Applying power to Pin 9 TAXI+ energises the strobe LEDs continuously at 33% power. Reduced power is necessary to minimise the heat build-up in these LEDs, as they only have small heatsinks attached to them! However that s still around 2000 lumens of light from each wingtip. Landing Lights Applying 12 volt power to green plug terminal LNDG +12v energises the L and R landing light output terminals. Each output can supply 5 amps maximum. (The Flyleds landing lights draw one amp each, so that s three amps per wingtip). If current in excess of 6 amps is drawn, the relevant output switch will shut down to protect itself. The white Landing LED shows multiple states: On bright: Landing lights both on. Alternate dim/medium: wigwag mode, representing left/right landing lights active. Slow or fast flash: the left or right landing light output (respectively) has been disabled due to overcurrent. Wigwag mode Applying 12 volt power to both the green plug terminals LNDG +12v and WIGWAG activates the wigwag function for the landing lights. The cycle time will vary between 24 and 40 flashes/min depending on how Switch 1 and Switch 2 are set. If the strobes are also turned on when wigwag is active, Switch 3 Strb/ww determines the behaviour of the strobes: 5 With Switch 3 set to the left, or Strobe Priority mode, the strobe LEDs will flash as you would normally expect. The right strobes will flash at the same time as the left landing lights are on, and vice-versa, to maximise the contrast and visibility of the strobe flashes. With Switch 3 set to the right, or Wigwag Priority mode, the strobe LEDs will follow the landing lights and wigwag instead. They operate for a slightly shorter time than the landing lights, again to manage heat buildup. That s around 9000 combined lumens of light being thrown from each of your plane s wingtips you will be seen!
6 External WigWag Power systems available from Garmin, Vertical Power, Dynon and Advanced Flight Systems will automatically switch your landing lights to wigwag mode above a set airspeed. If you have one of these external lighting controller systems in your plane then please use it! Wire the Flyleds landing lights directly to these controllers following their instructions. To be released in a later version of the controller firmware: As well as the direct connection to the landing lights, you can connect the left and right output from your external lighting controller to the wigwag and LNDG inputs on the Flyleds controller. Turning on Switch 4 Ext WW tells the controller that an external device is controlling the landing lights. When the Flyleds strobes are turned on, the controller will monitor the Wigwag and LNDG inputs, and use these signals to drive the strobe LEDs in sync with the landing lights. The connection to the external controller can be made using small gauge wire as they are only voltage sense wires. By reversing these inputs the lights can either flash in coordination with, or opposition to, the landing lights. Switch 4 is at this point inactive.