How Digital Printing enables FAST FASHION. Jos Notermans September 26, 2018 WTiN Japan Digital Textile Conference 2018, Tokyo, Japan 1

Transcription

1 How Digital Printing enables FAST FASHION Jos Notermans September 26, 2018 WTiN Japan Digital Textile Conference 2018, Tokyo, Japan 1

2 SPGPRINTS: INNOVATIVE PRINTING SOLUTIONS Founded in 1947 as Stork Prints, the Textile Printing Group of STORK Active in the textile, label and industrial markets Rotary screens, printing equipment and digital inks FTE, 10 operating companies First mover in digital textile printing (first digital textile printer launched in 1991) ITMA 1963 Hannover ITMA 2015 Milano 2

3 CONTINUOUS INNOVATION UNIQUE 8 TH GENERATION PRINTERS /2016 3

4 WHAT IS FAST FASHION 4

5 BIRTH OF FAST FASHION Term used by fashion retailers to express that designs move from catwalk to shop quickly Mainstage: Vogue Boho-Chic Forefront fighters H&M, Zara, Peacocks, Topshop 5

6 INITIATOR OF FAST FASHION Produce what you already sold versus Try to sell what you already produced 6

7 FAST FASHION IN JAPAN Top 5 Fast Fashion brands in Japan Honeys 2. Earth Music & Ecology 3. GAP 4. Shimamura 5. Gu 7

8 WHAT ABOUT UNIQLO? Top 3 global Fast Fashion Brands 1. Zara (Spain), 2017 sales USD 27,8 billion 2. H&M (Sweden), 2017 sales USD 24,1 billion 3. Uniqlo (Japan), 2017 sales USD 16,2 billion Uniqlo is planning to reach 28 billion by 2020 Is it Fast Fashion? Corporate Strategy: totally ignore fashion CEO Tadashi Yanai: Uniqlo is not a fashion company, it s a technology company Zara: rapidly respond to fas-changing fashion trends, large network of suppliers Uniqlo: planning a year in advance, focus on a few styles of urban practical basics, all in-house design & manufacturing 8

9 MILLION SQUARE METERS TEXTILE PRINTING JAPAN AND THE WORLD Market share Japan: 5,4% (2017) 4,9% (2020) US+Canada Europe Asia-Pacific Latin America Rest o.t. World Japan Source: GIA Projections, Gherzi 9

10 DIGITAL TEXTILE PRINTING JAPAN AND THE WORLD World 2017 Japan 2017 Market share digital to conventional 7,8% 2,5% Market share digital Japan to World 1,7% Source: WTiN 10

11 DIGITAL TEXTILE PRINTING JAPAN AND THE WORLD World 2017 Japan

12 DIGITAL VERSUS CONVENTIONAL Conventional Textile Printing Maximum 24 colors, typical 6-8 Limited repeat length per design Limited design flexibility Higher set up cost (engrave screens) Lower variable cost per meter Longer delivery time for first order Longer delivery time for repeat order Lower capital investment Lower maintenance cost Considerable environmental impact Digital Textile Printing Unlimited number of colors Unlimited repeat Unlimited design flexibility Lower set up cost (no screens) Higher variable cost Faster delivery time for first order Faster delivery time for repeat order Higher capital investment Higher maintenance cost (printheads) Low environmental impact What does Fast Fashion want? Free choice of color and # of colors Unlimited repeat Unlimited design flexibility Low set up cost Low variable cost Fast delivery time for first order Fast delivery time for repeat order Low capital investment Low maintenance cost Green image 12

13 DIGITAL VERSUS CONVENTIONAL Conventional Textile Printing Maximum 24 colors, typical 6-8 Limited repeat length per design Limited design flexibility Higher set up cost (engrave screens) Lower variable cost per meter Longer delivery time for first order Longer delivery time for repeat order Lower capital investment Lower maintenance cost Considerable environmental impact Digital Textile Printing Unlimited number of colors Unlimited repeat Unlimited design flexibility Lower set up cost (no screens) Higher variable cost (inks) Faster delivery time for first order Faster delivery time for repeat order Higher capital investment Higher maintenance cost (printheads) Low environmental impact What does Fast Fashion want? Free choice of color and # of colors Unlimited repeat Unlimited design flexibility Low set up cost Low variable cost Fast delivery time for first order Fast delivery time for repeat order Low capital investment Low maintenance cost Green image 13

14 DIGITAL VERSUS CONVENTIONAL Conventional Textile Printing Maximum 24 colors, typical 6-8 Limited repeat length per design Limited design flexibility Higher set up cost (engrave screens) Lower variable cost per meter Longer delivery time for first order Longer delivery time for repeat order Lower capital investment Lower maintenance cost Considerable environmental impact Digital Textile Printing Unlimited number of colors Unlimited repeat Unlimited design flexibility Lower set up cost (no screens) Higher variable cost (inks) Faster delivery time for first order Faster delivery time for repeat order Higher capital investment Higher maintenance cost (printheads) Low environmental impact What does Fast Fashion want? Free choice of color and # of colors Unlimited repeat Unlimited design flexibility Low set up cost Low variable cost Fast delivery time for first order Fast delivery time for repeat order Low capital investment Low maintenance cost Green image 14

15 DIGITAL VERSUS CONVENTIONAL Conventional Textile Printing Maximum 24 colors, typical 6-8 Limited repeat length per design Limited design flexibility Higher set up cost (engrave screens) Lower variable cost per meter Longer delivery time for first order Longer delivery time for repeat order Lower capital investment Lower maintenance cost Considerable environmental impact Digital Textile Printing Unlimited number of colors Unlimited repeat Unlimited design flexibility Lower set up cost (no screens) Higher variable cost (inks) Faster delivery time for first order Faster delivery time for repeat order Higher capital investment Higher maintenance cost (printheads) Low environmental impact What does Fast Fashion want? Free choice of color and # of colors Unlimited repeat Unlimited design flexibility Low set up cost Low variable cost Fast delivery time for first order Fast delivery time for repeat order Low capital investment Low maintenance cost Green image 15

16 BREAK EVEN POINT BASED ON TOTAL COST OF OWNERSHIP General conclusion Long runs are cheaper in conventional printing: high initial costs are distributed over a large quantity of meters while the variable costs are lower Short runs are cheaper in digital printing: higher variable costs per meter are compensated by the lack of initial costs But a lot of factors have also an influence # of colors (more colors, more screens) # of color ways (more colorways = more meters with the same screens) # of repeat orders (more repeat orders = more meters with the same screens) # of designs (more designs = more screen costs) Source: Gherzi 16

17 HOW TO REDUCE THE COST OF DIGITAL Variable costs inks Reduce ink consumption per meter High density inks Less waste (purging, cleaning, startup) Less rejection prints Maintenance costs - printheads Reduce print head costs Longer life time Repairable printheads Easy to exchange and adjust Capital investment Reduce down time by increasing efficiency 17

18 HOW TO REDUCE THE COST OF DIGITAL ARCHER TECHNOLOGY Variable costs inks Reduce ink consumption per meter High density inks Less waste (purging, cleaning, startup) Less rejection prints Maintenance costs - printheads Reduce print head costs Longer life time Repairable printheads Easy to exchange and adjust Capital investment Reduce down time by increasing efficiency 18

19 SIMPLE COST CALCULATION Assumptions Printing 20 hours per day Printing 300 days per year 19

20 SIMPLE COST CALCULATION IT LOOKS MORE EXPENSIVE Assumptions Printing 20 hours per day Printing 300 days per year SPGPrints hardware Printer is more expensive (80%) Inks are more expensive (10%) Higher initial printhead costs (31%) 20

21 SIMPLE COST CALCULATION IT IS ACTUALY CHEAPER Assumptions Printing 20 hours per day Printing 300 days per year SPGPrints hardware Printer is more expensive (80%) Inks are more expensive (10%) Higher initial printhead costs (31%) SPGPrints Archer Technology Higher efficiency Lower ink consumption Longer printhead life SPGPRINTS IS 10% CHEAPER! 21

22 SO IT S DIGITAL AND SPGPRINTS THAT ENABLE FAST FASHION NO LIMITATIONS Large colour gamut Sharp images, fine lines Full blotches Smooth gradients Geometric designs DIGITAL PRINTING RELIABILITY Consistent quality Guaranteed runnability Reliable partner 22

23 CHARACTERISTICS SCANNING (MULTIPLE PASS) PRINTING Generic scanning printers Prints horizontal image bars in 2-8 passes Distance between nozzle plate and fabric 1-1,5 mm Restart printjob after standstill needs purging Warranty period limited and by the grace of the printhead manufacturer Maximum native printhead resolution is 600 dpi all higher quoted resolutions are interpolated Smallest dropsize of 6 pl requires grey ink for smooth lighter tones Typical yearly volume linear meter per year per machine SPGPrints JAVELIN Prints horizontal image bars in 1-4 passes Distance between nozzle plate and fabric 4-6 mm Instant restart of printjob 2,5 years full warranty on printheads without any discussion True native 1200 dpi resolution without any interpolation Smallest dropsize of 2 pl requires no grey ink, smooth light tones can be made with black ink Typical yearly volume linear meter per year per machine 23

24 CHARACTERISTICS SINGLE PASS PRINTING Generic single pass printers Prints full width of the fabric in 1 pass Printing speeds up to 75 m/min are quoted but hardly ever used Cleaning can only be done in the whole bar Warranty period limited and by the grace of the printhead manufacturer Changing a printhead takes hours Maximum native printhead resolution is 720 dpi all higher quoted resolutions are interpolated Smallest dropsize of 6 pl requires grey ink for smooth lighter tones Distance between nozzle plate and fabric 1-1,5 mm SPGPrints PIKE Prints full width of the fabric in 1 pass Limited printing speed to 40 m/min to increase quality and reliability Cleaning can be done in small segments 2,5 years full warranty on printheads without any discussion Changing a printhead takes 10 minutes True native 1200 dpi resolution without any interpolation Smallest dropsize of 2 pl requires no grey ink, smooth light tones can be made with black ink Distance between nozzle plate and fabric 4-6 mm 24

25 APPLICATION SOLUTIONS PRINTER SOLUTIONS PIKE Purchase price 2,5 3,5 mio Maximum speed 40 m/min, cruising speed m/min Printing width 1.85m 4-9 colors Reactive (other inks coming in 2019) Suitable for volumes of 4-20 mio meters per year JAVELIN Purchase price around Maximum speed 6 m/min, cruising speed 2,2 3,3 m/min Printing width 1.85m or 3.20m 6 colors Reactive, Direct Sublimation, Acid, Disperse (2019) Suitable for volumes of 1-2 mio meters per year 25

26 CUSTOMER FEEDBACK DONG HENG (CHINA) 26

27 SPGPRINTS INK RESEARCH, DEVELOPMENT AND PRODUCTION How we manufacture the inks Own ink factory In-house dye purification Finetuned for all leading printheads / printers Own development team In compliance with Oeko-tex, REACH, GOTS How you benefit from it Quality control and delivery flexibility Designed on specification, not on process parameters Guaranteed runnability Co-development inks printer software 20% lower inkconsumption 27

28 Thank you for your attention 28