Construction manual. Stand , V1.03

Transcription

1 V.3 Full Construction manual V.3 Full Stand , V.03 Qube Solutions UG (limited liability) Arbachtalstr. 6, Eningen, GERMANY / 75

2 V.3 Full This product was developed and produced in accordance with the European directives on the subject and therefore carries the CE sign. The authorized use of the product is described in this data sheet and the belonging assembly- and operating manuals. Warning: Changes or modifications of the product, as well as the non-compliance of the statements from the mentioned data sheets and operating manuals leads to loss of the approval for the European economic area. The symbol with the crossed out waste bin means, that the product should be recycled separated to the domestic waste as electronic waste. Where you find the next free acceptance place, will tell you your local administration. Another possibility is that you send your device back to us and we take care about the correct disposal for you. 2 / 75

3 V.3 Full Table of contents. Introduction & Common...6. Scope of delivery Component overview Technical aids and tools Important information! Assembling and soldering IC-Socket Light emitting diodes (LEDs) Resistors and Potentiometer Pin header for Jumper Diodes Crystals Capacitors Poly fuse Small Transistors Big Transistors Ferrite / Inductance Voltage regulator and cooling element Plug connectors and clamping strips Relays Assembly of the integrated circuits (ICs) Rotation axes Battery Spacers and screw joints Jumper Connecting and Raspberry Pi / 75

4 V.3 Full Table of Figures Figure : Components of the V.3 Full assembly kit...5 Figure 2: Technical aids and tools... 7 Figure 3: Usable soldering heads... 8 Figure 4: Mounting direction of the IC-Sockets Figure 5: Fixing the IC-Sockets before the soldering...23 Figure 6: All IC-Sockets fixed Figure 7: IC-Sockets overlie flat Figure 8: Alignment of the LEDs Figure 9: LED-connection wires bent Figure 0: LEDs crooked soldered Figure : Aligning of the LEDs Figure 2: LEDs straight aligned Figure 3: Shorten the connection wires Figure 4: Sockets and LEDs mounted Figure 5: "Jacking up" the circuit board Figure 6: Preparing the resistors Figure 7: Resistors mounted... 3 Figure 8: 47 kω - yellow, violet, black, rot, brown Figure 9: 30 kω orange, black, black, rot, brown Figure 20: 0 kω brown, black, black, rot, brown Figure 2: 3,3 kω - orange, orange, black, brown, brown...32 Figure 22:,2 kω - brown, rot, brown, brown, brown...32 Figure 23: 680 Ω - blue, grey, black, black, brown Figure 24: 470 Ω yellow, violet, black, black, brown...33 Figure 25: 270 Ω - red, violet, black, black, brown Figure 26: 20 Ω - brown, red, black, black, brown Figure 27: 47 Ω - yellow, violet, black, gold, brown Figure 28: 20 Ω 0.% - red, black, black, gold, violet...33 Figure 29: Fixing of the resistors Figure 30: Placing resistors Figure 3: Good soldering joints Figure 32: Placement of the Potentiometers Figure 33: Resistors and potentiometers mounted...36 Figure 34: 36-pole pin header and flat pliers Figure 35: Needed Jumper blocks Figure 36: Bending aid as help for soldering the pin headers...38 Figure 37: Correct resting pin header Figure 38: Diodes in overview Figure 39: Bending of the diodes with bending aid... 4 Figure 40: Right mounting direction of a diode... 4 Figure 4: Help at placing the diodes Figure 42: LM4040-diode preparation Figure 43: Clock crystal XTAL Figure 44: 6 MHz XTAL for the - Controller...43 Figure 45: Electrolyte capacitors in overview Figure 46: Polarity of the electrolyte capacitors / 75

5 V.3 Full Figure 47: Preparation of the Electrolyte capacitor C Figure 48: Electrolyte capacitors C9 mounted Figure 49: Ceramic capacitors in overview Figure 50: Avoiding of tilting movement Figure 5: Progress of the circuit board Figure 52: Poly fuses in overview Figure 53: Variants of the TO92-housing Figure 54: Orientation of the small transistors Figure 55: Big Transistors... 5 Figure 56: Bending the connection wires of the transistors...52 Figure 57: Positioning of the big transistors Figure 58: Montage of the Ferrite Figure 59: Assembly of the coil Figure 60: Coil mounted correct Figure 6: Bending the connection wires Figure 62: Connection wires bent Figure 63: Applying the heat-conducting paste Figure 64: Voltage regulator with cooling element Figure 65: Voltage regulator mounted Figure 66: Montage of the clamping strips Figure 67: Position of the Relays Figure 68: nearly ready... 6 Figure 69: Preparation of the ICs Figure 70: Correct positioning of an IC with notch Figure 7: Correct positioning of an IC with point Figure 72: Montage of the rotation axes Figure 73: Check of the soldering joints Figure 74: Battery mounted Figure 75: Montage of the spacers Figure 76: Jumper "SPI_EN" Figure 77: ready for the marriage Figure 78: Plugging the flat ribbon cable to the...7 Figure 79: mounted on Raspberry Pi Figure 80: Flat ribbon cable connected to the Raspberry Pi...73 Figure 8: with Raspberry Pi Model 2 B Assembly finished / 75

6 V.3 Full. Introduction & Common We are happy that you decided for! The available construction instruction guides you, step by step, from the assembly kit to the complete device. We wish you a lot of fun for the assembly and the usage of your own controlling platform.. Scope of delivery Once the assembly kit arrives, please check if all components of the following list are included. Please mind that it is only the components for the assembly kit and not the optional accessories. Information to optional accessories (manuals, part lists, ) you can find in our download area on our homepage: A optical overview over all included components and therefore a help for the a check for completeness gives figure. We recommend to print the overview of all components in tabulator form (incl. Numbering) from side 7 and the placement plan on side 3. All mentioned sides will be needed several times while assembling. 6 / 75

7 V.3 Full Labelling (on the board) Count C, C4, C6, C0, C2, C3, C6, C20, C23, C24, C27, C4 2 Ceramic capacitor, RM 5.08 mm 00 nf C5, C33, C34, C35, C36, C37, C38, C39, C40, C44, C45, C46, C47, C48, C49 5 Ceramic capacitor, RM 5.08 mm 33 nf C5, C28, C29, C3, C32, C42, C43 7 Ceramic capacitor, RM 2.54 mm nf C2, C3, C7, C8, C2, C22 6 Ceramic capacitor, RM 5.08 mm 22 pf C9 Electrolyte capacitor radial RM 5.08 mm 000 μf / 35 V C4, C7 2 Electrolyte capacitor radial RM 5.08 mm 000 μf / 0 V C30 Electrolyte capacitor radial RM 3.5 mm 00 μf / 35 V C, C8, C9, C25, C26 5 Electrolyte capacitor radial RM 2.54 mm μf / 50 V D Precision-Z-Diode LM4040CIZ, TO92 D2 Transil diode P6KE36CA, RM 2.7 mm 36 V D3, D4 2 Schottky-Diode SB340 / N5822 RM 5.24 mm 3A D5, D6, D7, D8, D9, D0, D, D2, D3, D4, D5, D6 2 Diode N4004, RM 0.6 mm A D7, D8, D9, D20, D2, D22 6 Schottky-Diode BAT4, RM 7.62 mm F, F2, F3, F4, F5, F6 6 Poly fuse / Multi fuse, RM 5.08 mm 3A F7, F8 2 Poly fuse / Multi fuse, RM 5.08 mm 00 ma F9, F0 2 Poly fuse / Multi fuse, RM 5.08 mm 50 ma G Lithium-Battery CR2025, standing 70 mah, 3 Pin IC Atmel ATmega32A-PU, Microcontroller IC2 LM2576T-5, Switching regulator TO220-5 IC3 MAX485-CPA, Transceiver, RS485 8 Pin, DIP Description Value 5 V, 0.% 0,25 A 7 / Pin, DIP

8 V.3 Full Labelling (on the board) Count Description Value IC4 MAX232-CPE, Level Converter RS232 6 Pin, DIP IC5 DS307(+), RTC 8 Pin, DIP IC6 74HC57, Quad 2 Channel Multiplexer 6 Pin, DIP IC7 Microchip MCP482-E/P, Dual- DAC Digital- Analogue- Converter 8 Pin, DIP IC8, IC9 2 LM358A, Dual- Operational amplifier 8 Pin, DIP KK Fischer Electronic U-Cooling element, SK 3/35 35x7x3 mm U Microchip MCP255-I/P, CAN-Controller 8 Pin, DIP U2 Microchip MCP255-I/P, CAN-Transceiver 8 Pin, DIP V, V2 2 74HCT26N, CMOS Quad Buffer 4 Pin, DIP JP Female connector, dual-rowed, 2,54 mm 2x4 Pole JP2 Pin header, dual-rowed, 2.54 mm 2x3 Pole JP0, J, J2, J3, J4, J5, J6, J7 Pin header, 2.54 mm x24 Pole JP8, JP9 Pin header, 2.54 mm JP4, JP5, JP6, JP7, JP8, JP9 6 Pin header, 2.54 mm JP3 Pin header, 2.54 mm K, K2, K3, K4 4 Fujitsu FTR-KCK005W, Relay L Ferrite core, inductance, axial 0 μh L2 Standing Inductance, Storage choke Würth Fastron 09HCP 00 μh LED, LED2, LED3, LED4, LED5, LED6, LED7, LED8, LED9, LED0, LED, LED2, LED3, LED4, LED5, LED6, LED7, LED8, LED9 9 Standard-LED, 2.54 mm Note: there are 2x36pol pin headers included, which get cut in two pieces at assembly! x6 Pole x3 Pole x2 Pole x Changer (SPDT) 3 mm, green 8 / 75

9 V.3 Full Labelling (on the board) Count Description Value Q, Q2, Q3, Q4, Q5, Q8, Q9, Q2, Q3 9 Small Signal- MOSFET- Transistor, TO92 2N7000(A) N-Channel 0.2 A, 60V Q6, Q7, Q0, Q, Q4, Q5 6 Power- MOSFET- Transistor, TO220 International Rectifier IRFZ44N, 55 V, 4 A N-Channel R60, R62 2 Potentiometer, lying, 9 mm R4 Metal layer-resistor /4 W, kω, % R2, R64 R65, R66, R67, R84, R85, R86, R87, R02, R04 Metal layer-resistor /4 W, kω, % R, R3, R0, R20, R2, R22, R25, R26, R27, R28, R29, R30, R3, R32, R33, R38, R39, R40, R4, R46, R47, R48, R49, R52, R53, R6, R63, R06, R07, R08, R09, R2, R3, R4, R5 35 Metal layer-resistor /4 W, kω, % R03, R05 2 Metal layer-resistor /4 W, kω, % R5, R6, R7, R8, R9, R23, R24, R72, R73, R74, R75, R76, R77, R78, R79, R92, R93, R94, R95, R96, R97, R98, R99 23 Metal layer-resistor /4 W, kω, % R6, R7, R, R2, R3, R4, R00, R0 8 Metal layer-resistor /4 W, Ω, % R8, R34, R35, R36, R37, R42, R43, R44, R45, R50, R5, R68, R69, R70, R7, R88, R89, R90, R9 9 Metal layer-resistor /4 W, Ω, % R54, R55, R80, R8, R82, R83 6 Metal layer-resistor /4 W, Ω, % R5, R9 2 Metal layer-resistor /4 W, Ω, % R56, R57, R58, R59 4 Metal layer-resistor /4 W, Ω, % R0, R 2 Metal layer-resistor /4 W, Ω, 0. % 25 kω 9 / 75

10 V.3 Full Labelling (on the board) Count Description Value SV Tub connector, standing 26 Pole SV2 Tub connector, standing 0 Pole X Clamping strip RM 5.0 mm, pole X2, X7, X8, X0 4 Clamping strip RM 3.5 mm, pole X3 Clamping strip RM 3.5 mm, pole X4 Clamping strip RM 5.0 mm, pole X5, X6 2 Clamping strip RM 5.0 mm, pole X9 Clamping strip RM 3.5 mm, pole XTAL Piezoelectric crystal, HC49U-S 6 MHz XTAL2 Piezoelectric crystal, HC49U-S 20 MHz XTAL3 Piezoelectric crystal, Clock crystal, TC38 IC-Socket for IC 40 Pole IC-Socket for U 8 Pole 2 IC-Socket for IC4, IC6 6 Pole 2 IC-Socket for V, V2 4 Pole 6 IC-Socket for U2, IC3, IC5, IC7, IC8, IC9 8 Pole V.3 Circuit board 23.5 x 07.5 x.6 mm 6 Jumper with handle, 2.54 mm Flat ribbon cable 26 Pole, AWG28 / RM.27 mm, 4.5 cm Post connector 26 Pole for AWG28 / RM.27 mm Flat ribbon cable Post connector 40 Pole for AWG28 / RM.27 mm Flat ribbon cable 2 Quick-release axle for Potentiometer 4 Spacers khz black pre-assembled! M2.5 x 25 mm Spacers with external thread M2.5 x 5 mm 0 / 75

11 V.3 Full Labelling (on the board) Count 8 Description Value Spacers with external thread M3x5 mm 8 Spacers M3x5 mm 4 Screw, cross recess M2.5x6 mm Screw, spacers Heat-conducting paste M3x6 mm g / 75

12 V.3 Full 2 / 75

13 V.3 Full 3 / 75

14 V.3 Full We check every assembly kit before delivery (visual inspection, weight check). If nevertheless a part should be missing so write us an (info@pixtend.de) and we look immediately that you get a free forwarding. Please do not send back the whole kit, if only one part is missing. This will only delay your project and causes expenses and costs for us. Thank you! 4 / 75

15 V.3 Full.2 Component overview Figure : Components of the V.3 Full assembly kit Figure gives an overview over all components included in the assembly kit. Labelling, values and quantities are shown in the previous list.. Electrolyte capacitors 2. Poly fuses 3. Ceramic capacitors 4. Resistors 5. Potentiometer & rotation axes 6. Heat- conducting paste 5 / 75

16 V.3 Full 7. Lithium- Battery 8. Pin headers and tub connectors 9. - board 0. Power transistors. Integrated circuits (ICs) and IC-Sockets 2. Diodes and light emitting diodes (LEDs) 3. Cooling elements 4. Pre-assembled flat ribbon cable with 26/40-pole connectors 5. Clamping strips 6. Relays 7. Voltage regulators 8. Ferrite (looks like a oversized resistor) and coil 9. Metal- spacers 20. Screws 2. Jumper 22. Small signal- transistors 23. crystals Please consider: The colour and form of small parts can change. We can't guarantee that the components will always look the same as in the overview picture or in the following pictures of the manual. But the components can be separated by the includes count of pieces or the labelling of the components. If available, the components can be tested and measured with a multimeter. If you don't have a multimeter and you are not sure with a component so we will help you with pleasure. to: support@pixtend.de 6 / 75

17 V.3 Full.3 Technical aids and tools Figure 2: Technical aids and tools Cutter (small) Needle-nosed pliers / Flat nose pliers (small) Bending aid (for resistors, capacitors etc.) (optional) Cross recess screw driver Slotted screwdriver Desoldering wick Solder (Ø 0,5 mm mm) Furthermore it is needed a soldering iron with a head which is thin enough to solder circuit boards. Usable soldering heads are shown in Figure 3. A common multimeter is not urgently needed, but helpful. Especially at finding failures and differentiate the components (for example resistors). 7 / 75

18 V.3 Full Figure 3: Usable soldering heads 8 / 75

19 V.3 Full.4 Important information! Please consider always the assembly- and safety instructions of the manual in further process, which are signed with the yellow warnings sign. Always use the the recommended tools and technical aids for the preparation- and assembly steps. Before you are forming, soldering, assembling or changing the components in any other way, please be sure that the steps of the construction manual are completely read and understood. If the components once are changed or soldered an exchange or return is impossible. Please do all soldering, forming and wiring conscientiously. The result will pay your effort! And please read too the safety information in the - datasheet and the printed safety instructions, which are included in the assembly kit. If the assembly- and operation manuals as well as the technical datasheet are not respected, the approval for the European economic area (CE-conformity) is lost. Please adhere to the instructions and read all provided information before you put the in operation. 9 / 75

20 V.3 Full 2. Assembling and soldering If you have read the safety- and assembly instructions and checked the completeness of the components with help of the part list and the overview picture, then it can be started with the assembly. For the soldering and assembly works, depending on the manual dexterity, about 4 hours will be needed. Take enough time to avoid careless mistakes and the consequential rework. We recommend the following order at placing and soldering.. IC-Socket 2. Light emitting diodes (LEDs) 3. Resistors and Potentiometer 4. Pin headers for Jumper 5. Diodes 6. Crystals 7. Capacitors 8. Poly fuses 9. Small Transistors 0. Big Transistors. Ferrite and coil 2. Voltage regulators and cooling elements 3. Plug connectors and clamping strips 4. Relays 5. Assembly of the integrated circuits (ICs) 6. Rotation axes 7. Battery 8. Spacers and fittings 9. Setting jumper 20 / 75

21 V.3 Full On the following sides the single steps will be shown in this order, illustrated by many pictures and tips. The order of the placement-, assembly- and soldering steps has no technical relevance. But we assembled some of the - boards manually and think that the shown order is well-suited. Sure you can use your own order as well. However we recommend to insert the lithium battery towards the end. So it can be avoided that the battery gets a short. A short circuit can damage the battery and the board! All components are getting placed on the top side of the board and soldered on the bottom side. The top side can be recognized at the white printing. For fast and failure free work we recommended to print the placement plan and the part list or to open it on the laptop / tablet next to the soldering place. Especially at resistors and capacitors it is helpful to use the digital version of the plans and lists, because in PDFs it is possible to search for components. Part list and placement plan you can find in our download area: 2 / 75

22 V.3 Full 2. IC-Socket The circuit board has to lie on a flat and clean base. The IC-Socket has to be put through the circuit board from the placement side. All IC-Sockets have a mark (notch) for the mounting direction. This mark is shown too in the white labelling, how you can see in Figure 4. Figure 4: Mounting direction of the IC-Sockets After putting the socket in the circuit board it is still not fixed and can fall out while turning the board. Hold the socket before turning the board. By bending two opposing pins on the bottom side, the socket can't fall out. (see Figure 5). Tip for advanced users: Also you can put in all sockets together and hold them together with a piece of paperboard. If circuit and paperboard is hold together the complete sandwich can we turned. The paperboard is lying on the table. Hold the circuit board and pull out the paperboard carefully. This procedure needs sensitiveness, but it make the bending of the pins unnecessary and leads to a faster result. 22 / 75

23 V.3 Full Figure 5: Fixing the IC-Sockets before the soldering The bending of the opposing pins can be done with the fingernails or with a screwdriver. Figure 6 shows the circuit board with all sockets. 23 / 75

24 V.3 Full Figure 6: All IC-Sockets fixed Start the soldering iron now. Begin with soldering of the already bent pins of every socket. It is not to recommend to solder all pins immediately! Figure 7: IC-Sockets overlie flat 24 / 75

25 V.3 Full If only one of both pins is soldered you still have the possibility to align the socket again. All sockets should be overlie flat on the circuit board how it is shown in figure 7. Should the socket not lie flat on the board, then it is possible that it leads to mechanical problems later at the mounting of the ICs. Press if necessary with one hand the socket on the circuit board and alternate warming the two pins with the soldering iron from the other side (only short time!). Do this with every socket if they are not lying flat. Attention at the aligning of the sockets! Pay attention that you don't touch the socket at the place which you are warming with the soldering iron from the other side. Danger of burns! Now all Sockets should lie flat, so all other pins can be soldered. You built a good and solid base for the integrated circuits that will pay off later. 25 / 75

26 V.3 Full 2.2 Light emitting diodes (LEDs) At the LEDs it must be paid attention to the polarity. The longer pin is the anode (+). The anode is marked with a + on the circuit board. Figure 8: Alignment of the LEDs The light emitting diodes are put in the board one after another. For the fixing before the soldering it is enough to bend the two connection wires on the bottom side of the circuit board. 26 / 75

27 V.3 Full Figure 9: LED-connection wires bent We recommend here too to first solder only one pin per LED, so you still have the possibility to correct the position. The following figure shows the typical position of the LEDs after soldering. Not all LEDs lie good or are crooked. Because of this reason we soldered only one pin. Figure 0: LEDs crooked soldered Use the same method as with the IC-Sockets and press the LED on the board, then heat the bottom side of the soldering joint for short time. 27 / 75

28 V.3 Full The heating should be as short as possible, because otherwise the LEDs can be damaged! Figure : Aligning of the LEDs After aligning the LEDs all the second pins can be soldered. If it is not important for you if the LEDs are straight or not, so you sure can solder all pins at once and go on with the next step. Figure 2: LEDs straight aligned 28 / 75

29 V.3 Full To complete the assembly of the LEDs it's only to shorten the connection wires with a cutter (Figure 3). Figure 3: Shorten the connection wires Cut the wires near the soldering joint. Then short circuits between the connection can be avoided best. 29 / 75

30 V.3 Full Your -board should look now as following: Figure 4: Sockets and LEDs mounted 30 / 75

31 V.3 Full 2.3 Resistors and Potentiometer For the mounting of the resistors we can use attached spacers to make life easier by jacking up the circuit board. At the four corners of the circuit board the spacers (M3x5 mm with external thread top and M3x5 mm bottom) get screwed as in Figure 5. Figure 5: "Jacking up" the circuit board Before assembling and soldering of the resistors can be prepared more: Figure 6: Preparing the resistors 3 / 75

32 V.3 Full How showed in figure 6 the connection wires have to be bent. On which side doesn't matter. As next step the wires get shortened. The length of the wires should be shorter then 5 mm (measured from the end of the body of the resistor). This is important for the next step: Figure 7: Resistors mounted The resistors can be easily put in the proposed position now. The single resistors can be differentiated with the colour code. If you don't have a multimeter you can align the colour codes of the resistors with the following pictures. Easiest the colours can be seen at daylight or under a bright light. You must be sure that you identified the resistors right before you start with the assembling and soldering. If a failure is not found until initial operation it can lead to malfunction or in worst case to defects! Which resistor values have to be placed on which position you can see on the placement plan and the part list from side / 75

33 V.3 Full Figure 8: 47 kω - yellow, violet, black, rot, brown Figure 9: 30 kω orange, black, black, rot, brown Figure 20: 0 kω brown, black, black, rot, brown Figure 2: 3,3 kω - orange, orange, black, brown, brown Figure 22:,2 kω - brown, rot, brown, brown, brown 33 / 75

34 V.3 Full Figure 23: 680 Ω - blue, grey, black, black, brown Figure 24: 470 Ω yellow, violet, black, black, brown Figure 25: 270 Ω - red, violet, black, black, brown Figure 26: 20 Ω - brown, red, black, black, brown Figure 27: 47 Ω - yellow, violet, black, gold, brown Figure 28: 20 Ω 0.% - red, black, black, gold, violet 34 / 75

35 V.3 Full Some of the resistors already can be differentiated by the different counts. But the colour code or resistor value (with Ω- meter) should be checked still. It turned out as good to first place all resistors of one type and then solder the first pins. The resistors can be placed and fixed in the same position (Figure 29). Figure 29: Fixing of the resistors T some places it is better to place the resistor and fix it directly by a soldering joint. In Figure 30 is shown a place like that. If all four resistors would be placed in the row first, so it would be hard to solder the resistors in the middle. 35 / 75

36 V.3 Full Figure 30: Placing resistors If all resistors are placed and fixed by a soldering joint, then the circuit board can get turned and the second connection wire get soldered. On the bottom side it should be checked, if on the already fixed connection wires the solder flew down through the hole. If not the soldering point can be heated again and feed with more solder if necessary. Figure 3: Good soldering joints (Solder cone on the pad ) The connection wires of the resistors get cut again with the cutter. 36 / 75

37 V.3 Full The two potentiometer are getting put in the board and soldered at one point. So the components can be fixed again if necessary. The other pin of the potentiometers can afterwards be soldered easily on the bottom side. Figure 32: Placement of the Potentiometers The spacers are getting removed again and put aside through the final assembly. Figure 33: Resistors and potentiometers mounted 37 / 75

38 V.3 Full 2.4 Pin header for Jumper In the assembly kit are attached two 36-pole pin headers (Figure 34). Figure 34: 36-pole pin header and flat pliers The pin headers now can be shortened to the needed length with a flat pliers. As an example we shorten a 3-pole jumper block. The plastic part of the pin header is hold with the pliers on the third pin. With the other hand the rest of the pins (in one piece) can be broken. Grab with your fingers as near as possible to the predetermined breaking point or the plastic maybe will break at another point as wanted. Following lengths are needed: x 24 Pins x 6 Pins 6x 3 Pins x 2 Pins The best is to start with the longest piece (24 pins). Should a long piece break at an unwanted place, so it is possible to make another smaller piece out of it. A certain percentage buffer for failures we indeed have inserted. So some pins will remain. 38 / 75

39 V.3 Full The result should look like that: Figure 35: Needed Jumper blocks Like all other parts too, the pin headers are getting put in the board from the top side. Because the headers don't hold from alone it always is getting one piece put in the board, hold and turned. That the loose put pin header doesn't fall out something has to be laid under. We use the bending aid for that. Figure 36: Bending aid as help for soldering the pin headers 39 / 75

40 V.3 Full Here too it is helpful to always solder first the two outside pin to fix it. As next step the position has to be checked. Figure 37 shows a correct positioned (90 to the board) and neatly resting pin header. (24-pole). Figure 37: Correct resting pin header After the positioning all other pin can be soldered. This process is getting repeated for all other pin header pieces. 40 / 75

41 V.3 Full 2.5 Diodes Figure 38: Diodes in overview With the diodes the bending aid will be used for its first real purpose. The diodes will be bent to different lengths / grid dimension:. SB340 / N5822: 2. P6KE36CA: 3. N4004: 4. BAT4: 5. LM4040CIZ: RM 5.24 mm RM 2.7 mm RM 0.6 mm RM 7.62 mm TO92-housing The here named dimensions should serve as orientation. If you don't own a bending aid, it is not necessary to exactly bend it to the tenths millimetre. The bending can be done without bending aid too, by hand (sense of proportion). The preparation and soldering of the LM4040-diode is explained more detailed in the following. 4 / 75

42 V.3 Full Figure 39: Bending of the diodes with bending aid The diodes have a defined mounting direction, which has to be abided. The white ring on the diode is too found on printing on the circuit board. Die BAT4-diodes have a blue basic body and because of this a black ring as mark. Figure 40: Right mounting direction of a diode The P6KE35CA-diode has no defined mounting direction. It doesn't matter in which direction this component will be mounted. With the diodes it is the same procedure as with the LEDs: Insert, bend connection wires, soldering and if necessary positioning, cutting long connection wires at the bottom side near the soldering joint. 42 / 75

43 V.3 Full In the area of the digital inputs are standing much resistors in direct environment and make it difficult to put the diodes through the holes. You can pull the wires down from the bottom side or push them from up with a screwdriver. Figure 4: Help at placing the diodes The LM4040-diode has a special structural shape (TO92-housing). For preparation the pin in the middle has to be bend about -2 mm back (in direction of the round housing part), like it is shown in figure 42. Figure 42: LM4040-diode preparation The next step is to mount the LM4040-diode. Then bend the connection wires on the bottom side and solder them. 43 / 75

44 V.3 Full 2.6 Crystals The crystals are getting mounted in the same way how before the LEDs. Only that here you don't have to look for the polarity. The 20 Mhz- crystal depends to the CAN-Controller, to the microcontroller the crystal with 6 MHz. The round clock crystal is giving the time for the real time clock. Figure 43: Clock crystal XTAL3 Figure 44: 6 MHz XTAL for the - Controller 44 / 75

45 V.3 Full 2.7 Capacitors Figure 45: Electrolyte capacitors in overview Started will be with the electrolyte capacitors;. x 000 uf / 35 V 2. 2x 000 uf / 0 V 3. x 00 uf 4. 5x uf At electrolyte capacitors it must be cared for the polarity. The longer connection wire is the plus pole. The minus pole is marked by a white stripe as shown in Figure 46. Figure 46: Polarity of the electrolyte capacitors 45 / 75

46 V.3 Full Even if the electrolyte capacitors partially hold alone, the position should be checked after soldering the first pin. The electrolyte capacitors 000 uf / 35V (C9) is mounted lying. The connection wires have to be bend closely to the component, how it's shown in figure 47. Figure 47: Preparation of the Electrolyte capacitor C9 Please here too take care of the polarity. Additional to the marking of the plus pole on the printing of circuit board, there is a white stripe printed on the board which is marking the minus pole: Figure 48: Electrolyte capacitors C9 mounted 46 / 75

47 V.3 Full Now it is going on with the ceramic capacitors Figure 49: Ceramic capacitors in overview. 2x 00 nf 2. 5x 33 nf 3. 7x nf 4. 6x 22 pf For the ceramic capacitors the direction / polarity doesn't matter. For the rest go on as until now. Caution: Danger of mix-up with the fuses in the following chapter. The colours and forms of the capacitors can variate. The ceramic capacitors can be differentiated by the different quantity in the assembly kit or by the printing on each component. 47 / 75

48 V.3 Full Figure 50: Avoiding of tilting movement If you don't like the tilting while soldering, so it can be helpful to underlay a tool or something else at one side of the board. Figure 5: Progress of the circuit board The placement of the board is gone far already. If you are not sure that you have done all steps well, so you can compare it with picture / 75

49 V.3 Full 2.8 Poly fuse The fuses are getting mounted same as the ceramic capacitors. Too must be cared for the polarity here. 2 3 Figure 52: Poly fuses in overview. 6x 3 A 2. 2x 00 ma (Caution: Danger of mix-up with ceramic capacitors) 3. 2x 50 ma (Caution: Danger of mix-up with ceramic capacitors) The form of the components can variate. But they can be differentiated by the size and the quantity easily. The big 3 A-fuses are one of the highest components on the circuit board. If later the -metal housing should be used, then take care that the fuses are not overhanging to high out of the board and press them down all way before soldering. Or they will collide with the housing later. The correct position shows figure 55 in section / 75

50 V.3 Full 2.9 Small Transistors The nine small transistors can be available in two different versions: Figure 53: Variants of the TO92-housing At the version on the right side of the picture the pins are bent already an can be mounted directly. The transistor on the left has straight connector pins which have to be bent up with the pliers a bit Direct touching of the connection wires with the hands should be avoided. By electrostatic load the transistors can be damaged. ESD- shoes or ESD- straps are helpful here. The plastic housing can be touched without problems. If the pins have to be bent, a pliers with plastic handle should be used. 50 / 75

51 V.3 Full The transistor have a predetermined mounting direction which is marked by a round and a flat side of the plastic housing. The form of the housing is printed on the circuit board and easy to recognize. Figure 54: Orientation of the small transistors 5 / 75

52 V.3 Full 2.0 Big Transistors Figure 55: Big Transistors The six big transistors are located in close proximity to the 3 A-fuses and form together with them the circuit of the digital outputs. Same as with the fuses, here is to take care, that the components are getting put to as deep as possible through the board. (as in Figure 57). Are the transistor standing to hight in the board, it can lead to problems with the montage of the metal housing later! It is to look for the mounting position. On one side the component has a flap with a drill. This side is marked on the circuit board (white stripe - Figure 55). Direct touching of the connection wires with the hands should be avoided. By electrostatic load the transistors can be damaged. ESD-shoes or ESD-straps are helpful here. 52 / 75

53 V.3 Full Stick the transistors through the holes and bend the connection wires at the bottom side like it is shown in the following picture. Figure 56: Bending the connection wires of the transistors After soldering one pin of each component it can be adjusted again and if necessary put it deeper through the board. After that the rest of the connection wires are getting soldered and cut with the cutter. The transistors should be aligned and positioned like that: Figure 57: Positioning of the big transistors 53 / 75

54 V.3 Full 2. Ferrite / Inductance One connection wire of the Ferrite must be bent and then mounted how it is shown in Figure 58.The first pin can be soldered and fixed from above, same as the resistors. Figure 58: Montage of the Ferrite The coil can have different construction forms, that's why there are different drills for the different grid dimensions. It only must be soldered this pads which through which your component fits best. Figure 59: Assembly of the coil 54 / 75

55 V.3 Full Figure 59 shows how to mount the coil. But before the soldering the coil should be pressed down to the board as far as possible (flat lying on the circuit board Figure 60). Figure 60: Coil mounted correct It mustn't be cared of the polarity at ferrite and coils. 55 / 75

56 V.3 Full 2.2 Voltage regulator and cooling element The voltage regulator is mounted together with the cooling element. In this process will be applied heat-conducting paste too. The following pictures show the montage. The connection wires are getting bend at 90 near the housing with the plat pliers. Figure 6: Bending the connection wires The completely bent component shows Figure 62. Figure 62: Connection wires bent 56 / 75

57 V.3 Full Now the heat-conducting paste can be applied. Take a little piece of paperboard or a thick paper to apply the heat-conducting paste to the metallic back of the component. Figure 63: Applying the heat-conducting paste It's only needed a thin layer of paste. Much helps much is wrong here. More heatconducting paste as on the picture should not be applied. In the assembly kit is included a M3x6 mm screw. With this one the voltage regulator is getting screwed on the cooling element (tighten it hard). The connectors are looking through the opening of the cooling element. 57 / 75

58 V.3 Full Figure 64: Voltage regulator with cooling element The connection wires mustn't touch the cooling element, because it can lead to short circuits! As last step the pre-mounted voltage regulator with cooling element has to be placed on the circuit board. The cooling element should lie flat on the circuit board. 58 / 75

59 V.3 Full Figure 65: Voltage regulator mounted The five connection wires and their pads on the circuit board have only little distance between themselves. After soldering them it has to be checked if on the top side or the bottom side of the board are short circuits between the pads / pins. If necessary remove the unwanted connections with de-soldering wick or with a de-soldering pump. Check here again if the connection wires have no connection to the cooling element of the voltage regulator. 59 / 75

60 V.3 Full 2.3 Plug connectors and clamping strips The plug connectors and clamping strips are getting mounted with the same principle as the pin headers. To avoid that the connectors fall out while turning the board for soldering something can be underlay again. Figure 66: Montage of the clamping strips The plug connectors and clamping strips should be plugged as deep as possible always and lie neat on the circuit board. If later wires are getting connected here occurring powers can be absorbed best from the circuit board. If the strips are hovering over the board so the soldering points are burdened, which should be avoided! 60 / 75

61 V.3 Full 2.4 Relays Figure 67: Position of the Relays The four relays can be mounted only in one direction because of their connection wires. That the relays don't fall out while turning the circuit board, hold them and use if necessary something to underlay. We recommend to solder only two opposing pins of each relay that it is possible to adjust the position again. Or the relay can be mounted crooked on the board, what optical makes a bad impression. 6 / 75

62 V.3 Full Now its time to make a compliment! Now you have your assembly kit on the level of a ARTC-assembly kit (Almost Ready To Control) and with big steps you come near to the completion of the -board! Figure 68: nearly ready 62 / 75

63 V.3 Full 2.5 Assembly of the integrated circuits (ICs) Now it is time to put the integrated circuits in the sockets. For an easy an unproblematic connection the pins if the IC should be bent. Figure 69: Preparation of the ICs The feet are standing not exactly straight down, how you can see in Figure 69 (left). The chip can be hold on its plastic housing and then getting pressed against a hard surface until the wanted angel is reached. Like that all Pins of each IC are getting bent equally. After bending the pins should have an angel of 90 to the plastic housing, how you can see in Figure 69 (right). When mounting the prepared ICs it is to care for the notch, same as at the montage of the IC sockets. The notch of the IC, IC socket and the printing on the board have to match. If the ICs are getting mounted wrong it can lead to malfunction and defects! 63 / 75

64 V.3 Full Figure 70: Correct positioning of an IC with notch Some Chips have no notch, they have a point. Picture 7 shows the correct positioning. Figure 7: Correct positioning of an IC with point 64 / 75

65 V.3 Full 2.6 Rotation axes The both rotation axes can be easily put in the for it marked positions of the Potentiometer R60 and R62 without any tools. Figure 72: Montage of the rotation axes Even when it functionally makes no different do we recommend to put the arrows in the rotation axes in the same orientation. That helps at adjusting the analogue outputs later. 65 / 75

66 V.3 Full 2.7 Battery It is time for the last use of the soldering iron. The buffer battery for the real time clock (RTC) is getting soldered. Before that it is advisable to check all soldering work you did until now. Take some minutes time to check to bottom side of the circuit board: Are all components soldered neatly? Are there unsoldered pads? if necessary resolder Are all connection wires shortened? if necessary shorten it with the cutter Are soldering joints near to each other connected unwanted? if necessary cut the unwanted connections (desoldering wick) Figure 73: Check of the soldering joints 66 / 75

67 V.3 Full The top side or placement side of the circuit board should be checked again too: Are there connection wires of some components which touch each other (especially resistors)? Bend the components a bit to remove the contact Are all ICs, electrolyte capacitors, diodes etc. mounted in the right direction? if necessary desolder, unmount, turn, and solder again If you are pleased with the soldering joints and the position of all components, the battery can be soldered. The battery has three connection pins and can be mounted only in one direction. The result shows Figure 74. Figure 74: Battery mounted 67 / 75

68 V.3 Full 2.8 Spacers and screw joints In the assembly kit are different spacers included (M3 and M2,5). On the outer edge of the circuit board are all together eight drills. Here we need the M3,5 mm spacers with external thread and the M3x5 mm spacers. Figure 75: Montage of the spacers Order from left to right (Figure 75): M3x5 mm circuit board M3x5 mm spacers In the middle of the circuit board are six more drills. Four of them are used for the montage of the Raspberry Pi model B+ / 2 B / 3 B. The rest of the drills are normally not used (they are for the montage of the old Raspberry Pi model B (without + or 2 / 3 ). Hold the Raspberry Pi over the board before the montage, so it is easier to see which drills are the right ones. The order here is the same as with the M3- spacers: M2,5x5 mm circuit board M2,5x25 mm spacers 68 / 75

69 V.3 Full 2.9 Jumper As last step before the connection of the Raspberry Pi with the the Jumpers are getting set. To the pin headers / jumpers on the we want to give you the most important information: Figure 76: Jumper "SPI_EN" But in the following the pin headers are placed Jumper "SPI_EN": The most important jumper! For standard operation this one has to be placed all time. Without this jumper the Raspberry and the can't communicate. Jumper next to RS485- or CAN-clamps with the labeling ON OFF : The position of this jumper will be important when the interfaces are getting used. More information you can find in the datasheet of. For now set the jumper to the position OFF. Jumper DO-PWM near DO4 and DO5: 69 / 75

70 V.3 Full In the first step the jumpers are getting set to the middle and the left pin (position DO ). Which effect the setting of this jumper has you too will find out in the datasheet. Jumper +5V_PI / ON OFF next to the 26poligen tub connector: With this jumper is getting decided if the 5V supply of the will be used or not. If you connect only one power supply to the and the Raspberry Pi should have no extra supply so this jumper has to be set to ON. More infos you find in the datasheet! Warning! If the jumper 5V_PI is at position ON, then it is not allowed to connect another power supply to the Raspberry Pi. The possible compensation currents between the both power supply units can lead to malfunction, overheating of components or even the defect of them! Pin header I²C 5V / SDA SCL : Is not thought for setting jumpers! Here you can devices be connected to the I²C-bus. Don't set jumpers! Jumper 0V 5V (analogue inputs) and 5V 24V (digital inputs) Should in first step be set to 24V at the digital inputs and to 0V at the analogue inputs. Here can be changed the input voltage later if needed. If you are not sure at setting the jumpers, so it is always the safest to not set the jumper. More information to the jumpers and there effects you can find in the - datasheet. 70 / 75

71 V.3 Full now is ready for the marriage with the Raspberry Pi Model 2 B. Figure 77: ready for the marriage The following steps are valid equally to the model 3B / B+. 7 / 75

72 V.3 Full 3. Connecting and Raspberry Pi The connection of the Raspberry Pi and the is done quickly. The 26/40-pole flat ribbon cable with pre-fabricated connectors is getting plugged on the first. Because of the nose of the connector it is not possible to plug it wrong. Figure 78: Plugging the flat ribbon cable to the For the beginning the cable is getting bent away from the - board (Figure 78) that it doesn't disturb at the montage of the Raspberry. As next step the Raspberry Pi can be screwed on the four 25 mm spacers (4x M2,5x6 mm screw). Therefore is needed a little cross recess screw driver. On the following page you will find a picture with correct aligned Raspberry Pi and a mark of the four screws. 72 / 75

73 V.3 Full Figure 79: mounted on Raspberry Pi As last step now the 40-pole side of the cable can be connected to the Raspberry Pi. Take care that the connector is pushed down straightly to avoid bending of the pins. 73 / 75

74 V.3 Full Figure 80: Flat ribbon cable connected to the Raspberry Pi 74 / 75

75 V.3 Full Congratulations! You have built your own controlling system with the Raspberry Pi Computer now and can start! Figure 8: with Raspberry Pi Model 2 B Assembly finished All further information to the initial operation, usage and software you can find in the Download-Area of our Homepage. Please take note of the hints and tips in the initial operation- manual before you connect the with a voltage supply the first time. Do you need help at any point of this manual or do you have questions about the usage or initial operation? Gladly you can contact us over our Forum or per / 75