A tutorial by Ruben Coolen
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1 Altcoin Mining Frame Tutorial A tutorial by Ruben Coolen This easy to follow step-by-step tutorial will teach you how to create the altcoin/cryptocurrency mining frame pictured above with clear illustrations. This mining frame supports up to 8 GPU s with up to 6 120mm fans in front of them. 0
2 1 CONTENTS 2 Introduction Required hardware Required components Upfront information Optimal tube cuts Cutting the tubes Mounting hardware Frame assembly Conclusion
3 2 INTRODUCTION Quite some people asked me for a guide on how I created this frame, so I made this guide free of charge in my spare time (fun fact: I was actually on a vacation in Spain). I am not affiliated with any of the companies or shops listed in this guide, nor do I receive any commissions for linking to them. If you need a slightly different set-up, please feel free to contact me at ruben.crypto@outlook.com. When I find some spare time I might be able to help you out. Remember that this guide will probably be expanded in the future, so keep an eye on the version number. This is the first guide I have ever made. Do you have any tips about how I can improve this guide, or do you think there s any steps or information I ve missed? Please don t hesitate to let me know at the address listed above. 3 REQUIRED HARDWARE Since you downloaded this guide, I assume you already know what cryptocurrency mining is all about and what hardware you need to get started. I won t be recommending any brands or models, but below is a list of all the required or optional hardware to build a mining rig: Motherboard CPU (Central Processing Unit) PSU (Power Supply Unit) RAM (Random Access Memory - 1 memory bar of 4gb is recommended) SSD drive (M.2 if your motherboard supports it to save a SATA cable) When combining multiple PSU: Add2PSU adapter Up to 8 GPU s (Graphical Processing Units), depending on which motherboard you use As much powered PCI-E v006 or v007 risers as you have GPU s (try to connect the risers directly to the PSU instead of using the Molex to SATA cables included) Optional: Case fans (this frame is made to support up to 6 120mm fans to improve airflow) Power switch (PC can also be started without power switch by short circuiting 2 pins on the motherboard or, if included, pressing a switch on your motherboard) This should be enough to get you started. You may however encounter some issues with power cables being too short or too few, depending on which PSU you use. This was the case for me. I ended up having to buy a few extra PCI-E cables from the PSU manufacturer (Seasonic in this case) and an adapter cable from PCI-E to 4+4 pin EPS12V to power my CPU. 2
4 4 REQUIRED COMPONENTS The components listed below are all for a 20mm tube system. They can be found at local dealers or online. The example URLs are for a Dutch aviary parts shop, to which I am in no way affiliated. The tubes can be cut to length in a number of ways (hand saw, miter saw, etc.) and are available in a number of colors, usually grey, black, anthracite or green. Be aware that these measurements and components have to be followed exactly for everything to connect properly. When changing the length of one component, another usually has to be changed accordingly. With these components you will end up with a 770mm x 350mm frame (outer dimensions) awith room for 6 120mm x 120mm fans to blow the heat out away from the GPU s. If you d prefer not to include fans, the rig size can be reduced by leaving a few components out. For now though, it s up to you to recalculate the needed components. I might update the tutorial to include multiple set-ups in the future. Component Amount Example URL 730mm tube with 2 lips (4mm spacing) 4 tubes 730mm tube without lips 2 tubes 95mm tube without lips 6 tubes 165mm tube without lips 4 tubes 180mm tube without lips 2 tubes 110mm tube without lips 2 tubes 280mm tube without lips 2 tubes 310mm tube without lips 2 tubes 4-way connector 8 connectors 3-way connector (T-piece) 4 connectors 2-way connector (90 angle) 2 connectors Endpiece 4 endpieces 3
5 5 UPFRONT INFORMATION 5.1 OPTIMAL TUBE CUTS To optimize the amount of tubes needed, you can follow the below diagram. This should reduce the amount of 1m tubes to 4 tubes with lips and 5 tubes without lips while keeping the amount of waste to the bare minimum. I didn t list the tubes with lips because these should be self-explanatory. Each row in the table below represents 1 tube of 1m length. Pieces Sum Waste (without cuts) 1 x 730mm + 1 x 180mm 910mm 90mm 1 x 730mm + 1 x 180mm 910mm 90mm 2 x 310mm + 1 x 280mm 900mm 100mm 1 x 280mm + 3 x 165mm + 1 x 110mm 885mm 115mm 1 x 165mm + 1 x 110mm + 6 x 95mm 845mm 155mm 5.2 CUTTING THE TUBES The square aluminum tubes can be cut to the required lengths quite easily. You can do it yourself by using a hand saw, miter saw or band saw or you can go to your local DIY store and ask them to cut them for you. I ve also seen some webshops or local dealers who can cut them to the required lengths straight away. I would advise against using an angle grinder due to the fact that it s harder to cut the tubes precisely. If you insist on using this method, make sure to use a thin blade and use the correct safety measurements. The thin disks can quite easily break and cause wounds if not all safety precautions are taken. When all the tubes are cut, make sure to remove all of the burr from the cut edges with a metal file as seen in the illustration below. 4
6 5.3 MOUNTING HARDWARE The base part of this frame has lips to attach either a 730mm by 310mm wooden board (e.g. MDF) or some planks to mount the power supply unit and the motherboard. I will not go in-depth about how to create this board and how to mount the hardware. I would advise though to use copper or plastic standoffs to mount the motherboard. An easy way to mount the PSU would be to use industrial grade Velcro. Self-drilling screws, as illustrated to the right, can be used to attach the fans and GPU s. If you don t mind aesthetics, you could also use zip-ties to secure the GPU s in place. 5
7 6 FRAME ASSEMBLY I would advise to use a wooden, heavy rubber or hard plastic hammer to assemble the pieces in order to protect the relatively soft aluminum and plastic. If you do not have a rubber or plastic hammer, a normal metal hammer with a wooden block would also suffice. Be sure to remove any plastic burr from the connectors before each assembly is final to ensure a tight fit. The illustration to the right is an example of a metal hammer with a wooden block for protection. Step 1 Collect 4 of the 95mm tubes and attach an endpiece on one end. These go in quite easily, you might not even need your hammer for this step. 2 Collect 2 of the 4-way connectors and a 730mm tube with lips. Connect the 2 ends of the tube to the 90-degree angle legs of the 4-way connectors. Make sure the lips are facing inward as seen in the illustration below. These will be used as a support for the wooden board or planks. Repeat this step so you have the same assembly twice. 6
8 3 Collect a 110mm tube and a 180mm tube and connect them in a straight line with a 3-way T-piece connector. 4 Collect 2 of the 165mm tubes and attach a 2-way angled connector on one end of each tube. Connect these 2 parts with a 730mm lipless tube to end up with a square bracketlike ([) part. Repeat this step so you have the same assembly twice. 5 Put both of these parts on the ground next to each other in a parallel fashion with the remaining legs facing upwards. Now collect the part from step 3 and attach the open tubes to the upward facing legs. 7
9 6 For the final part of the base, take the 2 parts from step 1 and lay them next to each other in a parallel fashion with the remaining angled legs facing towards each other. The lips should be horizontal on the bottom of the assemblies facing each other as well. Connect these parts with the part assembled in step 6 as illustrated below. 7 Connect the feet assembled in step 1 to the bottom legs of the base. If everything was done correctly, you should now end up with a solid self-supporting structure. 8 Collect 2 of the 4-way connectors and a 730mm tube with lips. Connect the 2 ends of the tube to the 90-degree angle legs of the 4-way connectors. Make sure the lips are facing inward as seen in the illustration below. The lips will be used to create a slot to assemble the 120mm fans in. Note: if you do not need a stackable frame, you can replace these 4-way connectors with 3-way connectors as seen here: 8
10 9 Repeat the previous step, but use a lipless tube this time. We don t need the lip on the other end of the frame. 10 Connect both parts with the 310mm tubes to form the top part of the frame. 11 Collect a 165mm tube and a 95mm tube and connect them in a straight line with a 3-way T-piece connector. Repeat this step so you have the same assembly twice. 12 Connect these parts with a 730mm tube with lips. Have the lips facing away from the parts on the 165mm side as seen in the illustration below. You should now end up with an H-like part. 9
11 13 Collect the base created in step 7 and connect the H-like assembly from step 3 to 2 of the upwards-facing legs. Make sure to keep the 165mm tube on the bottom and the 95mm tube on the top with the lips facing inward. 14 Attach the 2 remaining 280mm tubes to the remaining upwards-facing legs of the base. You should now have 4 equal height legs facing upwards. 15 Collect the top created in and attach it to the base. Make sure the 730mm tube with lips is on the same side of the other tube with lips. The lips should be on the top of the frame facing inwards, essentially forming a 121mm slot for the 120mm fans. You should now have a sturdy frame with enough room to attach all the hardware parts. 10
12 7 CONCLUSION As previously stated, I made this guide completely free of charge to help out anyone who wants to start with mining cryptocurrencies. If you would like to buy me a drink or encourage me to make some more cryptocurrency mining related guides, please consider making a small donation (ZEC, ETH or BTC) at one of the addresses listed below. Bitcoin (BTC) Zcash (ZEC) Ethereum (ETH) 18Asss1iFChgMFZPxsY2hEgu BqhNaJZoN6 t1udy53qln1gwfnsvmzf vf7dfnhg92tfx3n 0xf cf9e e 07b66f8edbe19b4b20 11
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