Necessary software and hardware:

Transcription

1 Necessary software and hardware: Bases: First, remember that I m a French guy so my English is not perfect ;) If you see any mistakes, don t hesitate to tell me so I can correct them (my is at the end of the document). To achieve this project, you need to have a solid knowledge in electronics, programming, and you need to know how to use basic tools to make the box. You need to be familiar with the Arduino! If you can t code, solder, or the «Ohm s law» doesn t ring any bell to you, then you ll have a hard time following this tutorial! I will neither explain how to use the Arduino nor the ProtoShield (there a plenty of tutorials about that on the Internet!) Hardware: - An Arduino Uno or Mega - A PC CD player motor (a simple DC 12V motor, not brushless) and with the head - A wood box (size: 25x15x5cm; 10x5x2inches) - LEDs (and the appropriate resistors, around 330Ω usually): o 2 blue o 3 red o 4 orange o 5 green - 3 potentiometers - 4 switches - 1 Protoshield for your Arduino + HE14 connectors to plug it on the Arduino - Heat-shrink sleeve Software: - Traktor Pro - Serial Midi Converter V2D - LoopBe 30 (demo, works for 1h) - Arduino Software Files: - Source code and Traktor config file [ZIP]

2 The box Place the components and draw their position:

3 Drill holes: Advices: Use a flat-headed drill for the motor s hole (24mm for mine) Only use wood drills if you don t want to rip everything out. For the LEDs, use a 1mm drill or small nails.

4 Paint it black Advices: Obstruct the holes with some tape underneath.

5 Place the buttons, potentiometers, LEDs: Advices: Make sure you put the anode (-) of all LEDs on the same side (shorter leg), and bend it inward. You can paste the LEDs with hot glue.

6 Soldering (now, that s the fun part): Schematic: So, here is the schematic you need to follow (you just need to add one orange LED (after LED8). There are 11 volume LEDs, so 5 green, 4 oranges and 2 red, plugged in digital from 30 to 40). Remember where you plug all the components; you re going to need that for the code, if you don t follow the schematics to the letter.

7 Begin to solder the power cables (GND, +5V and +3.3V) - Connect one leg of all the potentiometers (left or right, not in the middle), and the anode of the LEDs : it s the ground (GND on the Arduino) - Connect the opposite leg of all the potentiometers, and of leg of each button : it s the +5V on the Arduino - 3.3V will be connected to on pin of the motor, and to an analog pin on the Arduino, which will be used as a reference. Place the H14 connectors on the Protoshield and solder them: - 5 analog pins (A##) (1 for the motor, 1 for the 3.3V reference, 3 for the potentiometers) - 11 (volume LEDs) + 4 (buttons) = 15 digital - 3 PWM (Beat + Jog LEDs) - GND, 3.3V & 5V pins Begin to solder to the Protoshield - Connect the other leg of each button to the ground with a pull-down resistor (1kΩ~10kΩ) and to the Protoshield (digital). - Solder the cables for the LEDs to the Protoshield (digital 30-40) with a resistor, just like that: - Then connect the LEDs to the Protoshield with the previously soldered cables. (Don t forget the heat-shrink sleeve!) (Volume LEDs are digital, beat and jog LEDs are PWM). - Heat up the heat-shrink sleeve to isolate the LEDs to avoid short-circuits. - Connect the beat and jog LEDs cathode (+) to the Protoshield (PWM). - Connect the potentiometers (middle led) to the analog pins on the ProtoShield (A##). - Connect the second motor pin to the ProtoShield (analog). - Solder the ground on the ProtoShield GND - Solder +5V and +3.3V on the ProtoShield.

8 Plug the ProtoShield onto the Arduino, and that s how it should look like! Just need to hot glue a CD on the motor!

9 Code part Communication for the Arduino to Traktor Physical controller (potentiometer, button) Arduino : Encoding the signal in MDID (3 bytes) PC (Serial to LoopBe's MIDI port forwarding) Traktor (recieving 3 MIDI bytes and executing the action) Configuration: You first need to tell the Arduino where the components are, if you didn t exactly follow the pin mapping on the schematic: You need to modify two places: The declarations at the beginning of the code: for example: int keypinpot = A0; Here, I say that my key potentiometer it plugged on A0. If you re familiar with the Arduino (hope so ) then you got the idea, it the same for the rest. You also need to the same for the volume LEDs: just after void setup() opens: led[0]=30; //1 st led[1]=31; //2 nd led[2]=32; led[3]=33; led[4]=34; led[5]=35; led[6]=36; led[7]=37; led[8]=38; led[9]=39; led[10]=40; LED placement LED placement... Upload the code. LoopBe30 - Install LoopBe30 (demo version closes after one hour, but LoopBe1 doesn t allow you to the bps as baud rate.) - Open it and click on «Change» to modify «Ports after Reboot», set it to 2 - Uncheck «Enable Shortcut Detection» - Hit OK and reboot

10 Traktor - Once Traktor is installed, go to «File», «Preferences», «Controller Manager», «Add», «Import», choose midi.tsi (previously downloaded in the ZIP file). - Make sure «In-Port» & «Out-Port» are set on «All Ports»

11 Utilization: Serial_Midi_V2D : - Open \application.windows\serial_midi_converter_v2d.exe (requires Java) - Press the key corresponding to your COM port (where the Arduino is, of course) - Choose [F] : bps - MIDI INPUT Port: 02. Internal MIDI - MIDI OUTPUT Port: 01.Internel MIDI - Make sure «Converter is running» is written in the bottom left hand corner Rock n Roll : Open Traktor, and start to mix! If you need to contact me, send me an at louis.jeckel@outlook.com I speak English, Deutch and Français!