Philosophy Of Creating Macros In Accumark CAD System

Transcription

1 Philosophy Of Creting Mcros In Accumrk CAD System Mrie Nejedl Astrct: - The rticle discusses promising method of creting documenttion in design preprtion of clothing production using the "Mcro" module. Cretion of the sic nd model design solution of clothing nd clothing prts, which is pplicle for ny design methodology, is concerned. The Unified Methodology y designing, using which preconditions for computer processing were set in the 90 th of the pst century, is pplied for solving. The mcros creted in AccuMrk CAD progrm cn e pplied for pre-defined size rnge nd lso for mking clothes fitting to prticulr customer's dimensions. All of tht cn e done if the input odily dimensions in the tle ound to mcro re kept. The sense nd im of mcro cretion is to mke lengthy nd repeted ctivities when creting design nd technicl documenttion more effective nd to show rtionl wys of their ppliction in clothing production. Keywords: Unified Methodology of Clothing Design (UMCD), philosophy of "mcros", mcro in CAD system AccuMrk, loding of mcro, outputs of mcro, trousers mcro, mcros t custom production. 1 INTRODUCTION The qulity of clothing products is, in considerle extent, ensured y perfect cut system. In the 90 th of the pst century, the sis for the new Unified Methodology of Clothing Design (UMCD) [1] ws lid in former Clothing Reserch Institute in Prostějov (project coordintor) in coopertion with the experts from Germny, Polnd, Hungry, former Soviet Union, Bulgri nd Romni. The new pproch set the sic conditions for ppliction of computer technology in the process of clothing design. UMCD is sed on the unified: method of finding out required odily dimensions, procedure for clculting design line segments, fundmentlly new system of dditions nd their ctegoriztion in design [2], procedure of design nd grphic projection, ppliction of interntionl terminology in the sphere of design. By pplying UMCD, the design engineers', designers' nd model mkers' ctivities rech fundmentlly higher level, set theoreticl sis for design unifiction nd stndrdiztion, nd thus for ppliction of computer technology t clothing design in comintion with offered possiilities of current CAD systems [1]. 2 TRANSFORMING A CUT INTO COMPUTER The concept of trnsformtion is connected with trnsfer of rel world imge into computer. We term the trnsformtion tht will e discussed in this rticle s sustitution or expnsion of mcro. Mcro (from Greek "μακρό" "lrge" or "fr") in informtion science defines the rules how the input sequence should e trnsformed to output sequence (of chrcters, ctions, clcultions, etc.). It is set of commnds, y which user's ctivities executed in certin progrm cn e utomted [3]. To chieve certin result the sme functions in the sme sequence re pplied. A mcro creted for clothing purposes includes sequence of functions forming the procedure of clothing mking tht is estlished y CAD systems design tools in comintion with design formuls of generl form, vriles of which re odily dimensions nd dditions influencing the clothing silhouette. After ctivtion, these mcros execute ctivities utomticlly nd disply grphic outputs in the sequence s they were creted. 3 SOLVING MACROS IN 2D CAD SYSTEM The clothing product cut designer's tsk is to chieve conformity etween the ody nd clothing, which requires not only fst orienttion on the ody surfce ut lso understnding of design, its cretion, description nd technicl terminology [4]. Bodily dimensions re nd will e the sis for ech cut design nd modelling creted mnully or utomticlly. They cn e mesured y contct method, i.e. using clssic mesuring instruments, or y contctless method using ody scnning systems. The numer of input odily dimensions for mcros depends on the pplied design methodology used in given country or region when designing clothing. This cuses significnt vriility of kinds nd types of clothing. However, the sitution cn e settled quite fst nd effectively y selecting proper design methodology. The ove mentioned UMCD methodology, which provides ll conditions for cretion of design documenttion using mcro, ws chosen for solution. Using mcro, design foundtions nd susequently clothing models cn e solved so tht they cn e used nd cn e pplicle even for customers whose odily dimensions do not comply with stndrd dimensions. The procedure of solution is done in AccuMrk CAD system, which is product of Gerer Technology, in selected kind of clothing, i.e. ldies' trousers. 3.1 Input dt for creting mcro Mcro is prt of AccuMrk CAD progrm, of PDS (Pttern Design Systems); its function is uilt on the principle of one commnd relting to certin element (prt, point, lines, curve, etc.) in the Crtesin system. The inputs for mcro re s follows: A. Definition of input prmeters definition of sizes for prticulr product type, definition of odily dimensions for ll determined sizes, definition of the sic size, in which mcro should e creted. B. Definition of design methodology design methodology for selected kind of clothing, system of design formuls nd design line segments for selected kind of clothing, 208

2 system of dditions to design segment lines for selected kind of clothing [2], procedure of designing for selected kind of clothing. The ove mentioned inputs for mcro under point A. need to e prepred in dvnce in tle in complince with properly defined form nd content determined y the CAD progrm producer in "MesureChrt Editor" Tle 1. Tle 1 Tle of odily dimensions for ldies' trousers Fig. 1 Exmple of entering design formuls with selection of odily dimensions nd the tool of term clcultor Opertor works in the dilog ox where loding, sving nd editing of mcro occur. Fig. 1). An exmple of recording mcro in AccuMrk CAD system is in Fig. 2). The odily dimensions re nmed in complince with Ti symols of UMCD. (T1 figure height, T18 wist girth, T19 sitting position girth, T25 lterl length of trousers, T27 step length, T51 lower width of trousers, PT18 ddition for ltitude to wist girth, PT19 ddition for ltitude to sitting position girth, 1 solute vlue of the design formul of line segment for sitting position depth, 2 solute vlue for rising wistline, 3 - solute vlue for deflection of the front centre line, k3 coefficient for proportionl division of the segment line). The size rnge is given y the sizes 44 to 66. Vlues of odily dimensions re stted in centimetres. All girth nd width odily dimensions re stted in complince with the pplied design methodology; here it is in complince with the UMCD methodology in full vlues. The prts stted under point B. must lso e prepred nd elorted in dvnce ecuse the mcro procedure differs from clssic mnul procedure. The procedure is ound y the wy of using tools nd their possiilities pplied in PDS. 3.2 Creting mcro Mcro commnds re given y essentil philosophy of the AccuMrk progrm mnufcturer. It is the method of designing indirectly. In AccuMrk CAD system, mcros re creted in three steps: loding mcro ctivting mcro editing mcro ) Loding mcro The design procedure is siclly creted during mcro loding. The procedure is ound y formuls of design line segments tht re entered into the system in generl form with ppliction of odily dimensions included in the tle elonging to given mcro. In this cse it is Tle 1 kl3_jmko for ldies' trousers design. While "loding new mcro", nme of the tle of dimensions (kl3_jmko) is chosen in the dilog ox first nd then the whole design procedure for given kind of clothing is sved into it using sic construction elements for design prt, point, line, curve, etc., nd using design formuls pplying the tools of term clcultor Fig. 1. Fig. 2 ) Loding mcro dilog ox using design tools; ) Recording mcro in CAD system While working, this ox is minimized, or executed opertions re checked nd edited; the opertor cn see them in grphic form in the desktop. After loding, the mcro is sved, dilog ox is closed nd grphic depiction of mcro is removed from the desktop. ) Activting mcro Verifiction of creted mcro's function nd its vlidity for entered sizes nd corresponding dimensions is executed in the "ctivting mcro" menu mcro is selected nd only the sic size or the sizes, in which mcro should e 209

3 ctivted, re mrked Fig. 3. Design of the clothing of entered size or sizes is displyed y clicking on the desktop Fig Outputs of the mcros of AccuMrk CAD system Mcros cn e solved with regrd to ctegoriztion nd stndrdiztion pplied in design preprtion of production in severl phses. Depending on the purpose nd ppliction, grphic outputs of mcros cn e in the form of: sic type designs, sic (min) prts, model solution of the clothing. ) Bsic type designs nd sic min prts The sic type designs cn e solved with regrd to silhouettes, i.e. fitting nd proportions of the clothing, tht re solved y modifictions in design formuls, in the system of design line segments nd in design procedure. Bsic type designs re universl. The outputs re first, sic design (design net) nd second, min prts tht cn e chieved y the definition of individul prts outline in the design net. It mens tht fter sving they cn e repetedly used for model solving of the vrints of trousers. An exmple of mcro of sic design (net) nd sic min prts of ldies' trousers - is in Fig. 5. Fig. 3 ) Selecting the sizes for ctivting mcro; ) Grphic depiction of mcro design net - size 48 c) Editing mcro Mcro cn e creted successively, sved susequently nd checked continuously y ctivting mcro. If mcro is creted in prts, we work in the "editing mcro" menu to continue in cretion of mcro design procedure Fig. 4. Fig. 5 Bsic design (net) of ldies' trousers; Bsic min prts of ldies' trousers ck nd front prts ) Model solution nd clothing prts Using mcros, we cn solve the vrints of clothing models with regrd to shpe solution, with regrd to length of clothing, etc. with respect to use of the clothing. The sis for ech model solution is the sic type design tht is modified y structuring nd trnsferring of selections nd using mny shpe solutions. The outcome is set of prts forming model. Model solution will e reflected in ll of the sizes stted in the tle referring to the mcro. By modelling mny vrints of models nd their prts re creted, they re solved nd sved seprtely. Successively modulr system including the types of prts, from which new model would e put together, cn e set in. An exmple of model solution of ldies' trousers is in Fig. 6. Fig. 4 Editing script nd the tool for editing mcro Mrked tools llow removing of selected script nd recording nd creting of new script nd the tool llowing disply of the creted prt of mcro in grphic form in the desktop to continue creting the mcro. 210

4 Tle 2 Tle of customers' design dimensions sic size (48) nd "Cust1", "Cust2" When ctivting the originl mcro, the new tle Z_1 or "customers" is loded to the mcro insted of the originl tle, size code of the customer(s) is selected nd the mcro of creted model is ctivted Fig. 7. Fig. 6 Outputs of mcro Design net; Bsic prts nd model solution of the ck nd front prts of ldies' trousers - size 48; ) Model solution of ldies' trousers - size 44, 48, 66 The sic (min) prts nd prts set in y modelling cn e sved in the sic size or in ny selected size in complince with the tle referring to the mcro into AccuMrk dtnk for next processing. Templtes, which re susequently ville for creting lyout pln, re creted from the prts y dding set-in nd end turn-ups. By sving the templtes in sic size into AccuMrk system we cn susequently mke lyout pln for ech size included in the tle to given mcro or mke lyout for two, three or four size concurrently. Fig. 7 Setting the "customers" tle nd selecting customer's size "Cust1" The prts of ldies' trousers model 1 nd model 2 in customer's (customers') sizes re sved, set-in nd end turnups re dded Fig. 8 nd 9 nd the cut pln of clothing product is creted Fig. 8 nd 9, the clothing product cn e sent to the division process for utomtic cut out. Mking of the clothing product in producing workshop nd sumitting nd sending to the customer follow. 4 APPLYING MACROS AT CUSTOM PRODUCTION OF CLOTHING An dvntge of creted mcros is tht they cn e pplied in custom production s follows. It is sufficient to extend the tle of design dimensions mde in the "Mesure Chrt Editor" progrm for new size nd dd the dimensions in requested scope [4] nd sve with new nme, e.g. Z_1. However, there is nother option - to mke new tle in "Mesure Chrt Editor" under nme, e.g. "customers"; to enter into the new "customers" tle the sic sizes from the tle, in which mcro ws creted, nd size - customer's code or customers' codes, e.g. Cust1, Cust2,... nd dd requested odily dimensions of the customer(s) Cust1, Cust2,... in the sme extend s the sic sizes of the originl mcro. This Tle 2 cn e filled in for new customers. 211

5 Fig. 8 ) Model 1 Templtes of the sic prts of ldies' trousers nd ) their positioning onto mteril with no pile nd pttern 5 CONCLUSION The ove mentioned method of solution seems very promising. It, however, requests high level of expertise, power of visulistion, qulifiction, cretive ctivity nd ccurcy. But the modulr system nd stndrdiztion of the prts nd models, on the sis of which new model of mny vrints of clothing not only t clothing projection ut lso in Internet sle of clothing, prticulrly custom clothing, would e put together, cn e chieved using elorted procedures. All of tht re possile thnks to the Unified Methodology of Clothing Design tht is uilt on unified principles of designing clothes for entire popultion of men, women, oys nd girls. So fr, the principles of UMCD hve een pplied only in the softwre y ClssiCAD; the compny's plce of usiness is in Zlín in the Czech Repulic. All clothing documenttion in requested shpes nd sizes is processed here not on the sis of the principle of heightening ut on the sis of the principle of repeted design. Philosophy of "mcros" is very close to this method of design documenttion processing. REFERENCES [1] Nejedlá, M. kol Jednotná metodik konstruování oděvů. Výzkumný ústv oděvní, Prostějov, Czech Repulic. [2] Nejedlá, M. kol Systém přídvků v Jednotné metodice konstruování oděvů. Výzkumný ústv oděvní, Prostějov, Czech Repulic. [3] Document ville on we pge: Progrmming nd Modifiction. August 21, 2014: We site: [4] Nejedlá, M Trnsformtion of designed pieces to 2D CAD systems using mcro module. Fires nd Textiles, No 4, 12-19, Brtislv, Slovk Repulic. Fig. 9 ) Model 2 Templte of trousers with sddle in the ck prt, pocket in the front prt nd ) their positioning onto mteril with no pile nd pttern (pocket g is mde of the top fric) The lst option how to use outputs of mcro is s follows. The sic (min) prts or prts mde y modelling cn e sved in other selected size, which is included in the design tle, into the AccuMrk dtse for further processing. We cn work with, it mens model, such prts the sme wy s with ny other prt trnsformed into computer, e.g. y digitiztion. Susequent modelling of prts in AccuMrk, however, is not projected into the sizes pplied in mcro. The newly modelled prt cn e otined in requested sizes of the size rnges only using the method pplied so fr, i.e. using the principle of so clled heightening. 212