IMP Concepts 3DR Iris Retract Carbon Edition Installation Instructions

Transcription

1 Revision IV IMP Concepts 3DR Iris Retract Carbon Edition Installation Instructions Complete Kit includes all required mechanical parts: Includes: Assembled Actuators & Extended Retract Legs, Wire Clips & Retainers, 4in1 Servo Leads & Tie Wraps (Zip Ties) Actuator & Legs Details:

2 Parts Details (DIY Kit) 4 x IMP Concepts Retracts DIY Printed Kit (6 clearance from ARM Base) Actuator Mounts Detail

3 6 x Picatiny Rail Wire Clips (Black) 4 x Picatiny Rail Servo Plug & Socket Retaining Clips Generic Parts Required: 4 x Servoless Retract Actuators (PZ or HK-15094M) They will look like this, it has a metal trunion. Please ensure NOT to get any debris inside the actuator. The internal components will be damaged if the actuator does not move freely. Note: The trunions are threaded 3mm. If you have purchased the complete kit, 8 x M3x12mm shaft Screws are included. It is best to install the screws once prior to final installation to make sure the thread is clean. We recommend using the actuators with Metal Trunions if you have the DIY Kit. Features, Specifications & Dimensions: - Temperature range: -20 C 60 C - Operating voltage range: 4.5V-6V - Overall dimensions: 55(L) * 32(W) * 2(H) * φ3mm - Limit angle: 90 ± 1 - Item weight: 18g - Support Flight Weight (Each) 2kg. (2.2 Pounds) - Connector wire length: 7.2cm

4 Screws: Legs come pre-fitted with carbon locating shafts. 8 x 3mm x 12mm x.50 thread Cap screws These should NOT be over tightened as you can damage the carbon locating shaft. All legs are shipped with 3mm clearance holes as of January You may need some low strength thread locker to prevent these from coming loose in flight. 16 x 1.5mm x 5mm Countersunk Head screws. These are the tiny countersunk screws that come with the retract servos (These are used to hold the stock mount that is discarded, they connect to the printed Arm mount mentioned above to the Servo, they only fit on the 12.5mm x 12.5mm spaced side.

5 Installing the Actuator on the arm mounts If the actuators are not already mounted, you will need to remove the 4 tiny screws that that hold the actuators to the provided mounting plate, please discard both mounting plates as we do not use them. Install our arm mount to each actuator with the spacer so the actuator tilts slightly back (outboard towards the motors. Use the screw holes with 12.5mm x 125mm Square hole spacing. Do not over tighten the screws as you may strip the threads in the actuator. We have noticed that some actuators come with only 3 out of the 4 screws, or that one of the threaded inserts is either not threaded or damaged. This is OK as you only really need 2 opposing screws to hold them to the mounts securely. Tilt Spacers Installed With the carbon legs you need the retract legs to angle a little more outboard you can fit a small spacer between the servoless actuator and the mount, so the actuator tilts slightly more outboard. Spacer can be clearly seen in this photo:

6 1 x custom made or commercial 4 to 1 Servo Splitter. (See photos for examples of these) They are easily made from servo leads. You will need to make them long enough to reach your receiver or flight Control unit. (The 4 servos connect to this to provide one RX connection) There is no issue with power rating here as servo signals are just that, signals. Control signals and VERY, VERY low current in the MicroAmps). We use servo extensions with a splitter hub or a 4 In 1 Splitter cable. 8 x 4 Zip Ties 2 per actuator mount (8 x Black) Mounting the Legs on the Servoless Actuators: The shaft retraining screws in the side of the legs should float freely in the legs and not bind with the plastic. You may need to ream the holes to fit the screws you are using. Please do not over tighten the shaft retaining screws as they are designed to function correctly with minimum force. Excess force may cause the actuators to strain and possibly damage them. If the actuator motor gets hot please stop activating them until the cause is determined and rectified. Fine tuning the fit by filing off excess plastic is sometimes needed for smooth operation. It should be noted that actuators are not designed to run continuously back and forth, just when needed.

7 UBEC for Power to the Retracts (and any other Servos) NOTE: This is NOT supplied with either the DIY or Full Kits. This is because most folks have already upgraded their Iris Power to include a UBEC. The Iris will need a UBEC of 3amps in order to power the Servos, we used a Turnigy 3a switching UBEC powered directly from the battery, the gimbal power connector is ideal if you do not have a gimbal. Features: Over current and over heat protection. Switching frequency 300khz. 92% chip efficiency Noise reduction alloy housing Specs: Output: 5v/3A or 6v/3A (selectable) Noise: <50mVp-p(@2A/12v) Input: 5.5v-23v (2-5S Lipo pack, 5-15cells NiMh) Size: 41.6x16.6x7.0mm Weight: 7.5g UBEC Installation First the why? Well the PixHawk 4in1 (bless its little heart") has an integrated low current power supply. (Legacy APM Power Module) It claims to be ~1.5 Amps, but we would debate that. It is just about adequate for the PixHawk itself. But for a traditional Servo, Parachute, Bomb Drop etc., forget it. It does not have enough power to drive them. Let alone 2 or 4 retract servos. So why do it for a stock Iris? It helps & assists the stock supply, and acts as a backup in case the stock supply goes pear shaped for any reason. One a UBEC is installed, you can get 5v for your goodies from any spare PicHawk Port using the top 2 pins - * + 5v. It is an easy install but does require some soldering skills. IOHO no drone/bot owner should be without some basic soldering skills. Key tip, get a real soldering Iron, please do not use a red hot poker. Ideally a temp controlled iron, NOT a Solder Gun! That is a Poker in disguise. A basic iron is good but you do need one that will hit ~600*F. Here are some brief install instructions and some photos of a completed installation: 1) Get yourself our 3amp UBEC. It can actually handle 5 Amps for a while 2) Make sure it is set to 5v NOT 6v, they are usually dual voltage, the default it 5v but it is worth checking 3) Locate the input and output wires Clue, the output has a ferrite core ring on it to limit interference. 4) The input should be black (ground or -ve) and Red (+12v)

8 5) Take the bottom and top covers off the Iris and disconnect them and put them to one side. 6) Turn the bot over; I have included a photo of a virgin Iris' belly parts as a reference. Virgin except for my RC Light Switch that is (Not included) 7) See the battery input wires with the BIG blobs of solder holding them on to the 4in1, solder the input wires directly to them, same colors black to black and Red to red. You should be able to tack them on without melting the whole connection. (See Pics) We like to remove the closest ESC screw and put the wires under the 4in1. This shows UBEC mounted alternatively on the underside. Mounting the UBEC Either upstairs or downstairs is OK. And personal preference.

9 8) Run the wires to the top of the Iris, you may want to guestimate the length beforehand and run the wires before you solder them on and decide on final resting place for your UBEC. 9) Turn your bot over. Find a spot for the UBEC and double sided tape it down. See our reference pic. This shows the UBEC mounted upstairs as an alternate. 10) Plug the output connector usually 2 pin. into the Pixhawk Power Rail. Black to the top and Red to the middle, bottom pin is empty. Use a slot such as 4 that has the 4in1 going to the bottom pins and there are only 2 available - and + 5v. We are using slot 5 in the pic, but slots 1-4 only have 2 pins available, the correct ones and it is less confusing. What you are actually doing here is putting the UBEC in Parallel with the PixHawk s Power rail. 11) That is pretty much it. Remember, you are NOT changing anything with respect to the Iris' functional characteristics; you are adding 3amps of available current to use. Voltage is still 5v and should be.

10 Important Note: If you are using our upgraded Navigation Lights, it is recommended you place a small piece of electrical tape over the exposed pins prior to installing the LED arrays over the connectors where the Actuator joins the servo wires. For standard installations, please use some cable retainers to secure the servo wires inside the channel of the Iris arms. These are included with the complete retract Kit, additional ones can be purchased separately from our web store. Please be careful NOT to pinch the servo wires during installation.

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12 The legs and retract assemblies are not designed to take a REALLY hard landing, but then nor are the Iris stock legs. We have dropped out test quads (under duress to test them) from about 1 ft or so on concrete and there were no ill effect other than the hard sound. We were trying to come up with a dampener of some sort but perhaps some ¼ door draft foam glued to the leg bottom would work. But hey we are supposed to land softly right and on grass or something. The servoless retracts are said to have dampening qualities built in. Now just set up your gear switch on your favorite radio and you are done. This Link will give you an idea how to set up an ER9X Transmitter to use a switch on Channel 6 or 7. Mission Planner Settings: Under Standard Parameters set channel 8 to be disabled, or to do nothing (as opposed to or instead of Land, Simple Mode, Acro, etc). In the Gimbal Settings. If you have a 2 Axis Gimbal, "Roll - the top setting" will already set up with channel 6 from the TX connecting to RC9 on the Pixhawk. Use the next Gimbal Section (Tilt) to operate your legs.you may use 7 from the TX connected to RC11 from the Pixhawk. (Channel 7 can be connected to whatever switch on the TX you choose). Lastly, you should have the "Pan" section of the Gimbal Settings set to disabled on both TX channel and RC Channel. Here is the reasoning. During manual modes, you are free to operate the retracts and to roll the camera at will. During Auto mode, the Pixhawk tells the Iris how to conduct the mission after looking at its assets (does it have a gimbal? Is the gimbal 3 axis with pan capability?). The gimbal section is what the Pixhawk looks at. From there, when the Iris runs a mission, it believes it is rolling the camera and panning the camera to keep the subject on screen. If you have Retracts or Lights connected to the Roll or the Pan gimbal area, those will operate instead.

13 Example Gimbal Settings Using RC6 for the Retract Servos:

14 Extended Tuning Setup: PixHawk Channel 8 Parameter Setup (When using Channel 8 to control the retracts): We noticed that in 3.2 of Arducopter these parameters were set to odd numbers, probably for some other Gimbal controls (3 Axis Perhaps or Shutter) We simply set them to another channels default settings.

15 Example ScreenShots of and Iris TH9X Channel 8 Setup for Activating the Retracts In this example, the Throttle Switch (THR &!THR) is being used. However any spare switch can be assigned. Please refer to the TH9X Operation Manual for additional Information.

16 Important Servoless Actuator Mounting Bracket Information The latest versions of the Servoless Actuator Mounts are designed to break loose on a hard impact or a crash. This is because we do not want to damage the extended legs or the stock Iris arms. This feature is purposely built into each mount. Replacements can be purchased very cheaply for existing customers. When installing them for the first time they WILL be very tight, this is intentional. Please install them without the actuator a couple of times to get the feel and to Bed them in. Slot one edge under the Picatiny rail and with even force set it in place. You may want to offer it the first time without the Actuator installed to see how it fits. The extended base goes towards the motor side as shown in the photo below. We have added some additional support with the addition of holes in each mount for 2, nylon zip ties, 2 per mount. These are very stealthy too and you would really need to look closely to see them, especially if you use black ties. We highly recommend using these zip ties to provide extra support. The mounts should be installed and removed a minimal times as possible after the initial bedding in as they are not designed to be put on and off repeatedly. They are purposely tight. If however you do remove them a lot and they may get a little looser, however, you can use the zip ties to keep them secure. The photo below shows the mount with a zip tie in place:

17 Complete Kit of Parts Contents

18 Iris Retracts Installed Sample Photos:

19 Go and enjoy your IMP Concepts Stealth Retract system. Web site: RCGroups Handle: The ShokWaveRider